Paul Walters on Style

It's Been a Long Time...

2012-02-07T11:50:00.000-05:00

...now I'm coming back home. New and without pretense. If you were reading and enjoying this site forgive my abandonment, but this blog will no longer be updated. I invite you to read my new and current site, The Large Print. The reason for the dissolution of this site can be found there.

My hope is that if you start reading along with me here you will not be disappointed.

The Velvet Jacket

2010-10-29T02:01:00.005-04:00

This will be quick. For the Fall and Winter seasons, it is imperative to have a velvet jacket at your disposal. The velvet jacket can dress up blue jeans for a casual ensemble, and can serve as the focal point for alternative black tie.

The key is this; with jeans, wear a crisp white dress shirt sans tie. The shirt should be nicely fitted. For alternative black tie, wear a black bow tie, black trousers, and either black cap-toe shoes, velvet loafers, or opera pumps (scratch that... save the pumps for white tie... unless you're in for serious rule breaking).

One should still wear a nicely fitted white dress shirt or a tuxedo shirt, although the look works better without a tuxedo point collar, but rather a spread or traditional point collar. French cuffs look best, and a subtle tactile texture in the shirt comes across very nicely.

For in-betweens (pictured) keep it minimal. White shirt, black neck tie (or solid color complimentary to your jacket color), black trousers, nice black shoes. Go bold if you must, with a brightly colored velvet jacket, such as this red Tom Ford offering with shawl collar (photo 2), but feel free to throw in some pattern to add some nonchalance and to deformalize the look a bit. For more formal occasions, one can never go wrong with midnight blue (left). In all cases, be respectful of the inherent formality of the velvet jacket and allow one 1/2 inch of cuff to show.

Velvet jackets are available from very low to very high prices, from a multitude of designers. I am wearing a customized vintage Hickey Freeman in photo 1. Tom Ford offers something similar today, but for lower prices, check Calvin Klein at Macy's, or just browse. Velvet jackets are big this season and everyone offers them. Get down with it!

Cheers,

Paul

Bond's Accessories: Persol

2010-10-19T01:01:00.000-04:00

It has been a while since I last wrote about sunglasses, but I have in the past mentioned my love of Italian sunglasses manufacturer Persol, and in an unrelated post, discussed the refined, insouciant character offered by a lighter colored pair of sunglasses than basic black. Today, I combine the two. Persol sunglasses, and tortoise-shell frames.

Persol calls their tortoise-shell colored frames "Havana". Call them what you like, the lighter colored frames catch more attention and can better compliment a colorful ensemble than black frames. Black is unimaginative in most cases- granted a black suit and shoes would probably cry out for black sunglasses, but in other scenarios, a lighter frame accents the different color hues in most clothing.

I personally have been blessed/cursed with a fair complexion, light hair and skin tone (yeah, that's me on the right), and tortoise-shell frames break the stark contrast that is achieved when I wear all black frames. Conversely, individuals with either olive, brown, or reddish skin tones will have their complexion complimented by the different shades of brown and amber present in a tortoise-shell frame. Everybody wins, you see.

My newest aquisition are these Persol 2720-S sunglasses, which were worn by Daniel Craig's James Bond in the 2006 film, Casino Royale (see picture, below). I opted for the brown lenses while Bond wore frames with green lenses, but I like the way that the Persol brown-orange lenses block out all the sunlight without making indoor lighting seem nonexistant (for the times when walking indoors briefly after forgetting your phone at home or dropping something off at the post office or making a bank deposit... not when gong out clubbing and trying to look cool by wearing shades indoors... you actually look like a douchebag when you do this. Trust me).

I have quickly fallen in love with this pair of shades. My wife tried to "adopt them" and I told her she'd better start trying to come up with a way to bump me off if she wants to inherit them. Like Charleton Heston said, "...From my cold dead hands." They're mine. I offered her my Ray Bans. She refused.

For those who are unaware of the history, Persol comes from the Italian words per il sole, meaning, "for the sun". The brand was founded in 1917 by Giuseppe Ratti. Its trademark is the silver arrow, and several of the company's glasses feature this symbol.

Persol was a heavy influence in the production of sunglasses. The company developed the first flexible stem.
Persol was introduced to the United States in 1962. Its first boutique opened on Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles in 1991.

Steve McQueen popularized two Persol models: the 714 folding sunglasses and similarly styled 649. He wore a special pair of 714's with blue lenses (now avaiable as a Steve McQueen Special Edition model at http://www.persol.com/) in The Thomas Crown Affair and was often photographed wearing the 649 model.
One of the most iconic images of Persol sunglasses can be seen in the movie Divorce Italian Style where Marcello Mastroianni wears a pair of black 649s; Mastroianni also has a pair of Persol sunglasses on in almost every scene in the movie La Dolce Vita.

Persols can be seen on celebrities as frequently as plastic surgery. Jack Nicholson, Jake Gyllenhall, Jay-Z, George Clooney, Sharon Stone, Pierce Brosnan, Bill Murray, and a slew of others are seen wearing them regularly, but that's not to say that celebrity iconography is what makes them worth a damn.

Persols are durable, stylish, and fit like a glove, thanks to the brand's patented "Meflecto" cylinders in the arms, which hug and flex comfortably around the wearers temple to provide a custom fit. The lenses are made of high-impact glass rather than plastic, and resist scratching better than any other sunglass lens on the market. The lenses also provide unsurpassed clarity. Each pair is hand-made in Italy and no two pair are absolutely alike, like a utilitaritan piece of art that one can wear on his face.

Upon reflection, I don't know exactly what the purpose of this post was, whether it was to plug Persol, make a James Bond reference, promote tortoise-shell frames, or just to say, "Hey, check out my new toy." Maybe it was a bit of all of these reasons, but I can guarantee you this: each reason was in the service of style. After all... that's why we're here. Isn't it?

Cheers.

-Paul

Esquire Has Done it Again!

2010-10-18T11:15:00.000-04:00

New for Fall 2010, Esquire magazine has released its latest offering of the semi-annual Big Black Book: The Style Manual for Successful Men.

This edition has a wealth of fine information with features on everything from Cars, Watches, Colognes, Writing Instruments, Holiday party beverages (the good ones: with booze), Socks, the ways to wear Black-Tie, Outerwear, a dissertation on absolutely everything one needs to know about wool, Tweed, a nice two-page spread on L.L. Bean Signature, and much, much more.

Without giving too much a way, a couple of page shots are pictured here, but the style-conscious man owes it to himself to pickup a copy. The newest Black Book is available at newstands for $9.95, or from http://www.esquire.com/.

If you are currently not an Esquire subscriber, the magazine is offering a great special now; the current Black Book and a one year subscription to Esquire for only $14.95. Very well worth it. Check it out!

Cheers,

Paul

Ralph Lauren: Fall 2010

2010-10-13T14:03:00.002-04:00

I love the feel of this video. Both warm and nostalgic, this video captures the beauty of this all-American preppy brand. Enjoy.
-Paul

An Unlikely James Bond

2010-10-12T19:31:00.002-04:00

For a little fun and nothing more...
Enjoy!

Great Tips from Sid Mashburn

2010-10-11T00:13:00.000-04:00

Check out the link below for a video of great tips from one of Atlanta, Georgia's premier clothiers, Sid Mashburn. Sid combines the best from Italian, English, and American Prep styles to create a winning look. Selected as one of GQ Magazine's 10 most stlish men last year, the words of Sid Mashburn will take you far in the realm of men's style. The video link supplied briefly covers essential clothing pieces, plus how to get some utility out of your dressier wardrobe items. Check it out!
Sid Mashburn Video

Layered Look for Fall

2010-10-05T11:21:00.000-04:00

I am so incredibly excited that Fall is here. It is, in my opinion, the most opportune of times for men's fashion, and gives us all a chance to amp up our style game. The crisp lines of summer fabrics can be traded out for layers of soft, tactile fabrics like wool, cashmere, and velvet (yes, velvet... but that's for another post!). In the early days of Fall, a day that begins in the 50's or 60's can easily work its way up to the mid to upper 70's, and then drop to the 40's by nightfall. This is why layering should be your secret weapon.

The look depicted today is just an example of layering tactics. Experiment on your own, and as it gets colder, the items will certainly change. What you see here today will almost definitely be accompanied by a trenchcoat when cold rainy days come, and the blat of khaki color will compliment the current ensemble. But don't let me get carried away with myself. Let me explain today's look.

The Shirt: The Oxford Cloth button down is the perfect Fall shirt. A little bit heavier than cotton broadcloth, the OCBD has a little heft to it, which serves well to stifle the cutting effect of a cold breeze.

The Jacket: Some say that everyman's wardrobe needs a navy blazer. I have two; one of a light-weight tropical wool for warmer months, and one (pictured) of a heavier cashmere-wool blend for the cooler months. This jacket goes with everything from jeans to tailored trousers, and works great as a layering piece. In Fall and Winter I tend to go for the more pronounced pocket square, again breaking away from the crisp, pressed lines of summer. The square adds some punch.

The Layer (Cardigan): A cotton cardigan makes for an ideal layering piece, because it is relatively light-weight. In early Fall, between the wool blazer and the OCBD shirt, only a slight bit of extra insulation is needed around the midsection. As you can see in the picture, this one is short-sleeved, which is perfect as the day warms up. At this point, one has the option to ditch the jacket and roll up the sleeves, as shown, or ditch the cardigan and put the blazer back on. I just love having options!

The Tie: I chose a bowtie for this look not just because of the color combinations I am wearing, but because A) Bowties are BIG this season (finally!!!), and B) I enjoy the preppy aesthetic that the bowtie lends to the casual nature of the outfit I chose.

The Jeans: In Fall and winter, a darker jean is preferable. In Spring and Summer one can lighten up a bit to shake the winter blues, but colder months call for a darker, somber color, like these that sport a deep indigo wash. Again, I chose jeans to flirt with the less casual looking, preppy above-waist look.

The Shoes: The brown wingtips. Again, I have two pair of these. One is a deep chocolate brown that I keep immaculate, and the other are these, which are lighter in color, and I let them get a little beat up, just to shake some polish from a casual outfit. Wingtips are great for Fall. Period.

The Extras: This outfit illustrates perfectly the extra flair that a nice umbrella can lend you, as I mentioned in the last post. Here in Charlotte, NC, the weather forecasts have been changing daily. A day that calls for no rain suddenly becomes a sling-fest of cats and dogs. In the particularly fickle early days of Fall, a sweet-looking umbrella just always works.

If one does remove the jacket and roll up the sleeves, one should wear a watch with heft, which compliments a layered look. Chronographs are cool. I tried to keep the color scheme in line with the shoes, since I'm otherwise bathed in reds and blues. Chunky. Brown. Bold. Bitchin' and BadAss.

Enjoy the season for layering. Enjoy the season to kick your style game up a notch. Enjoy soft, luxurious clothing. Enjoy the Fall.

Until next time,

Cheers!

-Paul

Umbrella Review: Brooks Brothers vs. Leighton

2010-10-02T14:14:00.003-04:00

Good day, gentlemen. Fall is here, and it's time to prepare for some rainy days. It's also time to amp up your umbrella game. Fold up travel umbrellas are convenient and they keep you dry. They can fit in a briefcase or dangle from a lanyard around your wrist. Golf umbrellas keep you dry as well... along with everybody else in your zip code. Neither of these umbrella types are particularly stylish. Travel umbrellas are strictly utilitarian, and golf umbrellas are a roving billboard for Wachovia or Bank of America.

What a gentleman needs is an attractive stick umbrella, free of crazy bright colors, company brands, and small plastic handles. A wooden crook handle and (when collapsed) a slim silhouette, a generous (but not gigantic) canopy, and a dark, solid color. Do you notice the funeral scenes in movies? I don't care which movie, because they're all the same. The day is dreary and rainy, and everyone stands under a sea of black umbrellas as they mourn. NONE OF YOU fine gentlemen need to be the lone idiot with the enormous red, white and blue BofA umbrella. Trust me! Now I'm not saying a fine looking umbrella should be restricted to funerals- quite the contrary. But one should be able to carry it anywhere to fit in...

...or stand out! Remember The Avengers' John Steed, who carried his classic stick umbrella with him everywhere, even on sunny, bone-dry days? Remember Sean Connery as Henry Jones in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade (whose umbrella came in quite handy in warding off a flock of angry pidgeons, or something to that effect), who had his umbrella with him always? A nice umbrella is like a sidearm. It can go with you everywhere, even if you don't intent to use it, but you'll never know when you might need it!

Today I review two classic-looking stick umbrellas, one from Brooks Brothers (top left) and one from a company called Leighton (top right). Let's get started!

First off, both umbrellas have a classic, refined style. Black canopy, slim design, and wooden crook handles. The Brooks Brothers "New Stick Umbrella" has a wooden shaft as well, while the Leighton "Executive" has a shaft fashioned of steel. Leighton makes one with a wooden shaft as well, which actually costs less money than their steel shaft version, so I wouldn't consider the shaft material on either umbrella to be a pro or a con, although the wood does look nice.

Both umbrellas have eight ribs that support the canopy. The Brooks Brothers (above left) version employs fiberglass ribs that are attached to the canopy with (bummer) plastic grommets. The Leighton umbrella (above right) has steel ribs attached to the canopy by a metal hinge. A much stronger design, if you ask me.

The tips of these umbrellas are both wood. The Brooks Brothers umbrella has an attractive metal ferrel at the base of the wooden tip, while the Leighton has a thicker, shorter tip with no added adornments that matches the wood of the handle. I'd say that the BB umbrella tip probably looks a bit nicer, but the very end is just painted black and not very smooth, so it looks as if something fell off or came unglued. I'd call this round a draw.

Both umbrellas boast a generous sized polyester canopy. Of the two, the Leighton is Teflon coated. The Brooks Brothers umbrella is not. Major score for Leighton. Also, the Leighton has an auto-open feature, while the Brooks Brothers umbrella is manual only. Another point for the Leighton.

The Leighton has a lifetime replacement warranty.
There is no stated warranty for the Brooks Brothers umbrella. 3 - zip Leighton.

The Brooks Brothers umbrella does have their attractive script logo on the canopy strap, which is a nice little touch. They also have a black canopy version with the BB Golden Fleece logo dotting the surface, which looks nice, but the ferrel on the wooden tip is plastic rather than metal, which turned me off to that design.

The Leighton umbrella has a nice little touch on the handle as well; a leather wrapping with the Leighton name embossed on the surface. The Leighton also has a metal ring to secure the rib points directly above the handle. The BB umbrella has no such feature.

In terms of dollars and cents, the Brooks Brothers umbrella retails for $60, which is approaching a lot of money for what you're getting. The Leighton Executive retails for $30, and is available in several colors at http://www.umbrellasandbeyond.com/ for $24, I believe.

When all is said and done, my endorsement goes to the Leighton, mainly because of this reason: when opening the Brooks Brothers umbrella for only the third time, prior to even testing it in the rain, one of the plastic gromets that secures the ribs to the canopy snapped, leaving one rib flopping about and the umbrella unusable. I returned it for a refund, and purchased the Leighton, which so far seems damn-near indestructable.

Both umbrellas are made in China (which greatly disappointed me on the Brooks Brothers model, considering the price tag), and the Leighton is clearly a higher quality product, which cost me less than half as much. I am a big fan of Brooks Brothers, as some of the previous posts would indicate, but they never have specialized in umbrellas, and I'll consider them in the future for their own items, rather than something they're just sticking their name on.

Anyway, go out and get yourself a man's umbrella, and give your novelty golf umbrellas to the Goodwill. If you must have something that large, Leighton also sells a Doorman model, with 16 ribs and a 60" canopy which retails for a mere $36, but unless you routinely walk around with a wife and 3 kids under your umbrella, a standard stick size will do. Travel umbrellas are great for... well... traveling, or to have in your briefcase as a backup, but we're men of distinction here. Get something that makes a statement that you have class.

Until next time,

Cheers!

-Paul

Congratulations, Tom!

2010-10-01T13:10:00.000-04:00

StyleSite.us sends enthusiastic congratulations to man of style Tom Waits, who was just nominated for induction into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. Thank you for your music, Tom. You deserve this honor.

Button-Down Shirts with a Tie

2010-09-27T18:17:00.001-04:00

Video by Paul Walters

Hello all! Someone that I know well and once considered myself to be friends with (we see each other very little these days) began making custom clothing a few years ago. I can't endorse it because I've never seen it first-hand, and I've never seen him wearing his own clothing at any of the fashion and style events we've both attended, but if it's as good as he says it is, his clothing must be excellent. I've only seen him wearing his own suits on video and in pictures, so they could be fused rather than canvassed for all I know.

On YouTube, this fella has posted a couple of videos offering clothing tips and style advice; one is about wearing a nice watch, where he shows off his fake Breitling for Bentley tourbillion watch and claims that it's real (the tourbillion brackets on the originals are slightly "A-framed", and the fakes are straight. I know the difference... I studied watches for years... the real ones also were "on sale" for $99,000), and one has to do with saying that button-down collar shirts should never be worn with a tie.

In my first-ever video blog, I debunk this myth, and explain why. Please enjoy.

Cheers,

Paul

More Brooks Brothers: Fall 2010

2010-09-26T16:57:00.000-04:00

Here is the new video look-book for th Fall 2010 lineup at Brooks Brothers. Enjoy.

Brooks Brothers: An American Staple Since 1818

2010-09-24T15:17:00.002-04:00

The American brand for nearly 200 years: your one-stop-shop for almost everything a man could possibly want.

Tom Waits, Downtown Train

2010-09-20T10:28:00.001-04:00

Prior to Rod Stewart covering this song, the original composer, Mr. Waits of course, made it rock. One can actually hear that the lyrics are brilliant, and the tone is much more fitting than the foofie remake. Tom, we salute you.

Required Listening: RPWL, Roses

2010-08-25T11:28:00.002-04:00

RPWL was a Pink Floyd tribute band who decided to compose and play their own music. The result is a phenomenal progressive rock band with a rich full sound, ethereal vocals, and amazing dynamics. Here, they play one of my favorite of their songs live. Enjoy.
-Paul

Buckling Down: Watch Entry III

2010-08-24T11:49:00.000-04:00

In keeping with the recent theme regarding wristwatches, I wanted to present another bracelet/band option for a more elegant and less casual look than the ribbon band I discussed last time. Leather bands always lend an aura of elegance to a watch, especially when fashioned of an exotic skin like crocodile or lizard.

Today I'm not talking about material, however, but about the clasp type of the watch band.

Metal bands are typically a little bit sportier than leather bands, but are often favored by wearers because of durability issues and the security of the clasps that typically accompany a metal band. There is a way to capture the elegance of a leather band and the security of a metal one; a leather band with a deployment clasp (pictures 1 & 2 - click to enlarge).

The pictures provided pretty much do the talking here and take away a need for too much explanation, but simply stated, a deployment clasp on a leather band allows one to position a pin in a bracelet hole for a good fit, and after that, the clasp can be snapped open and closed without having to pull the strap through the buckle each time. The result is a watch that fits a bit more snug on the wrist (photo 3), and often feels more comfortable on the wrist.

Having one of these groovy bands doesn't have to break the bank, either. They can be picked up on ebay for next to nothing. They are a good option for those who like a lather watch band. Give it a try!

Until next time (where we'll probably have one more watch-related discussion),

Cheers!

Paul

Groovy New-Old Vintage Watch, Part II

2010-08-19T09:15:00.000-04:00

PROJECT UPGRADE: It was my decision, amidst a cluster of 100 degree days, that such a hot time of the year with humidity thick enough to both cut through and choke on, that my groovy new-old vintage Zodiac Spacetronic needed a Summer facelift. In the spirit of the "trad" movement, and with a desire to wear something "lighter", I applied the ribbon band that you see here.

This simple nylon band adds a colorful aesthetic to one's overall ensemble, fits like a second skin around the wrist, and breathes, keeping the wrist cooler than a thicker, more insulating leather strap. Cool huh?

Various colors and patterns are available, but I'd say keep it simple. For a brief time last year, DayGlo colors were popular, a throwback from the 1980's... yeah... remember when Pizza Hut carried the "Back II The Future" sunglasses? That's what I'm referring to. I find the DayGlo movement to be nothing more than a passing trend, just as it was a fad when it first started. Stick to classic colors and avoid lime green, electric yellow, and neon pink.

Lifestyle brand J. Crew sells these ribbon watch bands for around $20 a piece. That's a lot for a piece of nylon. Check out this ebay seller; his bands are $4, with a $2.41 charge for shipping. That's more like it!

One can always go with the ribbon-band "old trusty"... the NATO strap as worn by James Bond with his Rolex Submariner in Dr. No (pictured at left). Be prepared to pay more than $4... I think there's an ebay seller who carries these for around $13.50... I'll let you research that one. Just remember... even though James Bond's Submariner had 20mm lugs, he wore an 18mm band... a little tip for those of us concerned with authentcity.

Until next time,

Cheers!

-Paul

Groovy New-Old Vintage Watch, Part I

2010-08-16T12:12:00.005-04:00

Hello all. I've spoken before regarding the immense "cool" factor of a nice vintage watch. If you can find one in good condition, without yellowing on the dial and corrosion on the hands, a vintage watch can provide the look of a one-of-a-kind piece that will catch the attention of people you meet day to day.

My newest acquisition definitely fits the proverbial bill. In the 1950's, watchmaker Hamilton started making electronic watches, the most famous of which being the "Ventura" (photo 1). After its futuristic design and initial service problems served to bankrupt the brand, Hamilton was bought out by the Swiss company SSH in 1974 and the Hamilton Ventura design became a brand mainstay that is still produced today, now under the model name "505", which was the name of the original electronic movement. The watch was featured on the wrist of Elvis Presley in "Blue Hawaii", and more recently, the wrists of Will Smith and Tommy Lee Jones in the "Men In Black" films. There are now different movements available in the 505. Most are quartz, and some are automatic.

Electronic watches were the first battery-powered watches, and though the movement still functions very much like a mechanical movement, a battery powers tiny transistors in the watch which regulate the time. The battery replaced the mainspring used in mechanical watches. The electronic watches were considered to be more accurate than mechanical watches had been.

Now, on to my watch! In the 1960's, Swiss brand Zodiac began making electronic watches to compete with those being offered by Hamilton and Bulova's Accutron. The Zodiac electronics boasted more reliable movements than their forebearers, and were able to be made thinner as well. My find is one of these Zodiac models, dubbed the "Spacetronic" (photos 2 & 3). Though originally made in 1968, this one has been very recently serviced and works flawlessly. A picture of the movement (photo 4) is shown as well. Notice that on the dial of the watch, there is no yellowing around the hour markers, which is often seen on older watches as the glue breaks down, and no corrosion on the hands. These are features one should look for when selecting a vintage watch.

A cool thing about the electronic watches is that like on mechanical watches, the second hand still sweeps around the dial, rather than ticking. Very cool. Get on the look out for a cool vintage watch. Ebay is a great source, but some small jewelry stores often have diamonds hidden in the rough.

Until next time,

Cheers!

-Paul

*P.S. As always, please click on photos to enlarge!*

Kathy Ireland

2010-07-16T13:06:00.002-04:00

This has nothing to do with style. For that I apologize. I did, however, feel compelled to share it with you.

New Site Name

2010-06-12T12:12:00.003-04:00

Thank you to all of this site's loyal readers. While readers can still reach this site from our blogger address, paulwaltersonstyle.blogspot.com, a new domain name should allow some ease of access. Our new web site is http://www.stylesite.us/. Thank you again for your continued patronage! Cheers,
Paul

Wardrobe Staple: The Black Neck Tie

2010-06-09T18:29:00.007-04:00

If you ask any woman what item in her wardrobe is the least expendable (or the most versatile), she will probably volunteer without hesitation that her must-have item is her little black dress. It works for every imaginable event from a dinner date, to a wedding, to a funeral. Men are a little different. Some will claim their navy blazer, others that perfect pair of khakis. Other men will assure you that they must have a solid black neck tie in their wardrobes.

Don't worry; unless you wear it with a black suit, you will not be mistaken for an undertaker, hit man, or a chauffeur. Since black is considered a "neutral" color, most blazers in colors from khaki to navy can be worn with a black tie. It's plain enough to be worn with jeans, yet the dark color makes a black tie ideal for formal events, paired with a killer suit.

Many a man believe the black neck tie to be to funereal in nature, but I disagree. It can show that you mean business, or it can allow for a simple clean line to compliment your ensemble. Width is important. I think that a slim tie is the way to go. Don't be confused. By slim, I don't mean skinny. Reservoir Dogs was a great movie, but we're talking about style here.

My black tie is, at it's widest point, 2.75 inches, which is minimalist in nature, but not trendy. Too wide a tie and you'll look like you earn a second income waiting tables. Too narrow and you'll look like our Reservoir Dogs friends, bumping off jewelry stores. If the width is equal to or less than that of a dollar bill, you're in good shape. If it's less than 2.25 inches, well... time to cue up the George Baker Selection's "Little Green Bag". Just remember: with the already "stripped-down" look of the black tie, maintaining simplicity is key.

Another tip is to add a little bit of decor to your simple black tie by wearing a tie bar. The tasteful silver flash sets the stark black canvas into relief, and draws attention in a good way. Solid color shirts pair best with the black tie, so think white, blue, or, for the dandies in our midst, pink.

For some extra ornamentation, add a pocket square. This can match the shirt, or for the daring, be the source of pattern for the ensemble. If you stuck with the solid shirt, pattern is good for your square. If your shirt has a pattern, keep the pocket square plain. Otherwise, the shirt-and-pocket square-busy to tie-plain ratio is going to look way off balance.

One can never go wrong keeping all three elements plain and simple, as pictured to the left.

Thanks for tuning in, and until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Required Listening: Robert Cray, "Moan"

2010-06-08T11:27:00.000-04:00

One of my greatest inspirations. Not necessarily Robert Cray himself, but the raw, unadulterated emotion of his song, "Moan". Sorrow, rage, regret, and hope all drip from from Cray's voice and Fender Strat. The notes he doesn't play are just as important as those that he does. When choosing an ensemble for your next workday, do so with this playing behind you. Try to get into the groove of the music. Dance a little if you have to. Be open to letting "Moan" penetrate your bones and influence your clothing choices.
Just... trust me.
Cheers.
-Paul

The Thrill of The Thrift

2010-05-24T15:15:00.010-04:00

Well here it is. The 100th post of Paul Walters on Style. Maybe there are a few things I would have done differently if I was starting this blog today. Perhaps I would have posted more often. Perhaps I would have come up with a more creative name. I guess all the shoulda-coulda-woulda's hold about as much weight as a fart in the wind, as now there are only the considerations to be made about going forward.

I hope to be able to offer more material more often. I do try to avoid as much uninteresting filler as possible, wishing to focus on more substantial and appreciable information. If any of my readers have any ideas concerning things you'd like to read about or blog names that snag more attention spans let me know. That being said... today's topic!

With the current economic situation falling like a lead balloon (I really don't believe it to be "getting Better"), it's time for all of us to tighten our belts and embrace the philosophy of frugality. The penny-pinching mentality can be a tough one, because like any growing boy I'm always yearning for cool new toys. And like any boy-turned-man, the toys I want today sure are more expensive than they were when I was a child. It's like 1 Corinthians 13:11 says; "When I was a child, I spoke as a child, I understood as a child, I thought as a child: but when I became a man, I put away childish things." Sometimes I wish I still could get all warm and tingly inside by buying a Superman costume, but things are different now.

Now I'm thrilled by a new pair of Allen Edmonds, the fit of a tailored sport coat, or the way a Ralph Lauren Purple Label shirt feels against my skin. Sadly, these things don't come cheap, and in a recession, they usually just don't come... unless, one finds alternate methods of filling his materialistic needs. My mother has worked for Goodwill Industries for most of my life. She's an associate Vice President with the company, and needless to say, I've been in a lot of Goodwill stores. As a kid (restrained by my childish ways), it was easy to recoil at the thought of shopping at Goodwill. The stigma associated with being someone who shopped at Goodwill was supposed to be reserved for poor people, and not the upstanding upper-middle-class kid I was.

As an adult, however, struggling to become established in a time where everything is harder than it ever has been, I began to enjoy visits to the Goodwill store. Not only were the clothes inexpensive, but they were expendable. I began shopping for clothes that I could do back-breaking work in and not feel bad about throwing the clothes away when they became too heavily soiled. As time went on, I was able to afford (or at least make enough money to justify buying) nicer things like custom suits and shirts and expensive shoes. My Goodwill shopping, however, continued. I began looking for vintage pieces and rare finds. As the economy has been tanking, I have found some sweet deals.

The items featured here today are from only one visit to Goodwill, and here they are:

-Ralph Lauren Purple Label dress shirt. Approximate retail price $475 - $595 (shown at top with coat and tie, and at right)

-Armani Jeans sport shirt by Giorgio Armani. Approximate retail price $155

-Saks 5th Avenue Broadcloth buttondown. Approximate retail price $135.

Again, these items came from only one trip. I regularly find many garments from Brooks Brothers and Polo Ralph Lauren. Tommy Hilfiger items abound. Lacoste polos are not uncommon either. Regarding thrift store shopping, let me offer the following tips:

First of all, buy in your size. Don't buy a great shirt or pair of pants because of the brand or quality unless it fits you perfectly. An ill-fitting garment looks cheap, regardless of the quality. I have a couple of sport coats I've thrifted, and I always try them on and mentally add up how much tailoring will cost me. Depending on how much work needs to be done, certain purchases aren't worth it. A good rule of thumb with jackets is to get something that fits in the shoulders as closely as possible. Also pay attention to the length of the hem and how much fabric needs to be taken in. If a jacket needs to be taken in too much the pockets will inhibit the process at the seams.

Secondly, look it over well! I've gotten a great deal before on a perfect fitting shirt only to realize after getting home that there was a rather significant tear in the fabric that I had missed before. Do a thorough inspection. A third tip goes hand in hand: assume that stains will not come out. Don't confuse your drycleaner with a wizard. Stains that have been sitting for too long will not come out without risk of damage to the fabric, and we don't want that!

It's important to remember that we are in the worst economy since the Great Depression. Some say the current economy is even worse when one takes into account the effects of inflation. There is no pride to be lost by thrifting. If anything, consider your secret to be one that brings you enormous power. Christopher Lasch said, "Nothing succeeds like the appearance of success," and the appearance of success comes cheap, at only $3.79 per shirt.

Until next time,

Cheers!

-Paul

Back to Life. Thanks for Your Patience (A Letter From the Editor).

2010-05-19T02:06:00.001-04:00

My dear readers, I have been absent from the web for too long. I offer my most sincere apologies and promise that I am back to stay. I thank those of you who follow this blog and I hope that you have not lost faith.
I blame my lapse of posting on several factors, including both a full-time day job and a second job at nights, playing music professionally at assorted venues, accompanied by the new "phases" that my two young children are putting into practice.
What can I say? Life can be a mutha. Obviously, my passions lie in the topics discussed here on this site and in the love of style that makes its dwelling in my bones. I appreciate your steadfastness.
My next post will be my 100th. The centennial will have to have been worth the wait. What better time to "turn 100" that right after my coming back to life. I will leave you with this video, and my promise that this farewell will be a brief one.
Until next time,
God Bless.
-Paul

Big Black Book for Spring

2010-04-08T11:16:00.007-04:00

Spring is here, and for some of us that marks the anticipated release of another fantastic semi-annual style resource from Esquire magazine. The Big Black Book for Spring 2010 is finally here, and available on newstands everywhere. I was pleased to see that even some grocery stores are carrying The B.B.B this year, as last year I really only saw it at bookstores. I hope that means that demand has been high, as I don't want to see these fine volumes go extinct anytime soon.

Esquire, we hope you'll keep up the good work (and yes, although I've entered a contest that Esquire sponsors, this write-up is completely non-biased)!

Features include (but are not limited to) the fine art of wearing white, selecting good-looking and durable luggage, choosing the summer business suit, and spotlights on designers that are bringing bold new ideas to mainstay brands such L.L. Bean, Bass, and Gant. There is even a handy table that provides the carry-on weight and size limit for all the major airlines. Good info to have, if you ask me. As infrequently as I fly, I find myself surprised everytime I do at the new laws and restrictions that seem to pop up anew with each airport visit.

There is an article on the style-world's rekindled obsession with "trad" wear, a detailed focus on watches, and one of the coolest pictures of Keith Richards I've ever seen. Run out, and get yourself a copy of the current Black Book. It may even tide you over until the Fall issue comes out. The Big Black Book is available at newstands or through Esquire for $9.95.

Cheers,

-Paul

A Tight-Knit Community

2010-04-01T15:50:00.004-04:00

Hello, all! I must apologize effusively for the unannounced hiatus. There has been a lot going on for me, though it's not worth rambling on about here. Today I wanted to mention an accessory that has been making a huge reemergence in recent years, and the fact that the current season is promoting this item as well leads me to believe that the presence of the silk knit tie is indefinite.

Though obviously available in many colors, I think the first color worth adding to one's wardrobe is the navy blue knit tie. Simple and versatile, this was the tie worn by Sean Connery's James Bond with a beautifully tailored suit, and the texture of the tie also makes it perfect for dressing up a much more casual ensemble (perhaps even one that includes a jet-pack). I like the knit tie in predominantly solid colors. The tactile texture of the tie needs to be balanced with a sparse pallet and too many colors in the tie are distracting.

One of the nice elements of the knit tie is that any season can make the tie look at home. In colder months, the added bulk of the tie implies warmth, but in warmer seasons, the lightness of the silk and looseness of the weave looks comfortable and cool. Wool ties, for example, really work only in the fall and winter months.

One thing that I like to do with textures, and the knit tie is a perfect example, is to pair a visual texture wih a tactile texture for a nice balance. In the pictured example (photo 1), the tactile texture of the knit tie is paired with the visual texture of the shirt's Glen Plaid weave. This shows contrast and at the same time, blends the knit's bulk into the shirt's supporting backdrop.

If the knit tie is not for you, I understand. The squared-off bottom and sock-like appearance are not attractive to some. I myself used to find knit ties tacky looking, partially because when I was younger they seemed so dated to me. Now, however, due to their resurgence, I consider my navy knit tie a staple in my wardrobe. It's one thing that defininitely has a place in my closet's tight-knit community.

Until next time,

Cheers!

-Paul

Shameless Promotion Alert!!!

2010-03-22T15:45:00.001-04:00

CLICK HERE!!!!

As I mentioned before, I entered Esquire's Best Dressed Real Man in America contest this year. I am currently the 7th most viewed profile, but I need your help to move up the list! Check it out!

Cheers!

-Paul

NOTE: The photo at left is about 3.5 years old, taken when my wife and I went camping for our anniversary. No razors came on the trip. Pardon the scruff.

A Little Piece of Americana

2010-03-20T15:00:00.001-04:00

I wanted to share with you all a little something I picked up the other day. I was at one of those multi-vendor gift shops... you know the ones; not quite an indoor flea market, not quite a retail store, and not quite a yard sale... something different but strangely reminiscent of each. Some vendors sold antiques, some hand-made jewelry, some books and other assorted knick-knacks.

One glass case caught my eye. It had shelves that rotated with the touch of a button, displaying tie bars and vintage cufflinks and intricate costume jewelry. In the center of one shelf rested my new acquisition. This brass Levi Strauss & Co. belt buckle.

Now, I don't know how old this is... possibly 1970's, but it's incredibly cool and with Levi's new merchandising and design director Erik Joule (the man behind the collaborations with J. Crew, Opening Ceremony and more) continually adding excitement to the brand, I had to buy it. I definitely see old Levi Strauss collectables like this becoming more and more sought after. I had actually left the store and gone home, having been accompanied by one exhausted 4 year old, but when I couldn't get the buckle out of my head 3 days later I went back and rejoiced that it was still there. Mine.

This buckle is the type that one would see on one of those woven Boy Scouts type slide belts, as can be seen from the photo of the back. The problem is that all of the replacement straps I've seen since buying this buckle (including a pack containing 3 interchangable color options actually made by Levi's) are just a bit too wide, so I'll let you all know how it turns out after a visit to the Army & Navy store. Hopefully I'll be able to sport the buckle soon. I tried a leather belt strap that wasn't too wide, but it was far too thick for the hinge mechanism on the back of the buckle. I'll keep looking.

In the mean time, if anyone knows anything about the vintage of this particular buckle, let me know. I think it will be a perfect compliment to my growing wardrobe of heritage American items.

Until next time,

Cheers!

-Paul

P-Dubb's Endorsement: The Ultimate Khaki

2010-03-17T11:40:00.008-04:00

The longer I keep up my work as a style blogger, the more I realize that others doing the same thing are being sent free swag to review on their sites. I've done several reviews and haven't been sent anything free yet, so to all of you fine purveyors of stylish goods out there, keep me in mind!

All joking aside (I was only half serious), I wanted to plug a product today that I bought because of the color and ended up falling in love with. It's a pair of chinos, and after my friend Mxolisi over at Perfect Gentleman blogged about a pair in the same color, I realized that all of my khaki chinos were more of a pale stone color and that my wardrobe was definitely lacking a pair in this sage brown / terra cotta hue.

I came across these pants by accident while I was at Target. I don't typically think of shopping at Target for clothing, but damn it if the color of these khaki chinos wasn't exactly what I was looking for. They are made by Target's exclusive brand, Merona, and the label proclaims their status as "The Ultimate Khaki." I didn't have time to try them on, so I took a gamble and bought them, figuring I could always come back later and exchange them for a bag of diapers or something else I would surely need.

When I finally tried them on, I was surprised. They fit exceptionally well. In fact, they may fit better than any off-the-rack pair of chinos I've ever bought in my supposed size, which no two makers seem to be able to agree on cutting the same way. The pants are 100 % cotton, flat front and slim cut, and according to their tag, shrink resistant, wrinkle resistant, stain repellent, and the cotton is made with what is referred to as "Nano-Tex" technology that repels spills and releases soil from the fabric when washing. Sounds pretty cool.

The size is great. I just hope that they are as shrink resistant as the tag says they are.

At any rate, the pants get high marks from me. I personally think that every man needs at least one great fitting pair of flat front khaki chinos. Just look at what icons like Miles Davis and Steve McQueen did with just that one article of clothing. The versatility is paramount. Merona's Ultimate Khakis are constructed well, fit beautifully, and at only $19.99 a pair, are quite affordable. Try a pair on and see what you think. The Ultimate Khakis come in several shades as well, from the pale stone color to the deeper brown sage / terra cotta color that I ended up with. The ones that I am wearing here are actually a lot more golden in color than the pictures show.

Until next time,

Cheers!

-Paul

Note: Click on any image to enlarge for detail

Visual Style at Its Best

2010-03-14T17:14:00.003-04:00

You know, say what you will about George Michael, but the man knows what people want to see. His gift for capturing a viewer's attention and playing with one's senses is uncanny. I was at a posh uptown party last night and found myself in a high-rise condominium overlooking the Charlotte skyline, which may very well be the coolest bachelor pad I've ever seen. I'm not going to go into too much detail except to say this: there was a laser/light show and a big TV mounted above the room playing music videos. One of the DVDs that the host put in featured music videos by none other than George Michael.
I thought this to be a pretty bold move at first, given the whole "lewd act" thing of a few years back, but considering that this particular condo probably got our host loads and loads of female... shall we say... attention, I watched. And watched. And realized that I'd forgotten how stylish this man's music videos were. Incredible attention is paid to color and movement, and even the shape of the models faces and hair styles contibute to the visual aesthetic of George Michael's music videos. Each frame of every video could make for an impressive photograph.
Check these examples out and see what I mean and you'll realize it too; the man has taste. Cheers!

The Buck Stops Here!

2010-03-09T20:03:00.006-05:00

Yes, yes: I know. A cheesy title. But c'mon! It ought to be expected given the topic of today's post. As spring approaches I find myself getting excited about breaking out wardrobe items that haven't seen the sunlight in the past six months. I enjoy the opportunity to lighten up a bit and embrace the coming warmth of early spring. One way to do so is with the proper shoes. I suggest these; classic nubuck oxfords.

Nubuck is top-grain cattle rawhide leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side, or outside, to give a slight nap of short protein fibers, producing a velvet-like surface. It is resistant to wear, and may be white or colored. I don't own a pair of white bucks. I'll be keeping my eyes peeled for a pair as they look pretty sharp, but to me, the white buck works best as a summer shoe. They seem most apt for the blazing heat of months like July and August. The tan bucks, which I own (shown, available at Brooks Brothers), are a bit more versatile and look perfect from late winter to early fall.

They can be worn with almost anything, from a rugged workingman ensemble to a blazer or sport coat and khakis. I don't know of any type of shoe that can so easily bridge the gap between blue collar and dressy. The reason, perhaps, is that nubuck is similar to suede, which I generally think of as being more delicate and refined. The difference is that suede is created from the inner side of a hide, whereas nubuck is created from the outer side of a hide, giving it more strength and thickness along with a fine grain. It is generally more expensive than suede, and must be coloured or dyed heavily to cover up the sanding and stamping process. Because of the strength of nubuck over suede, it can take one hell of a beating and wears like iron, but it preserves the aesthetic of a suede shoe.

The signature orange rubber sole of a pair of bucks flashes just enough color to draw the eyes of passersby, adding a little bit of "look at me" appeal to an otherwise conservative piece of footwear. What more can you ask for in a shoe? Versatility, durability, timeless style and classic good looks? I'd say you'll quickly run out of reasons not to go a grab yourself a pair. Mine are from Brooks Brothers, but J. Crew, L.L. Bean, Bass, Sperry Topsider and countless other makers offer a stylish nubuck oxford. Hope to see some on the streets this spring and summer!

Cheers,

Paul

(photo at left, from The Sartorialist)

Wardrobe Upgrade for Spring, Part 2

2010-03-08T12:56:00.001-05:00

I was pleased when I picked up my warm-weather blazer from my tailor last week. In addition to a few fitment tweaks that are occasional necessities from season to season, I had him apply some lovely mother-of-pearl buttons to the jacket in lieu of the traditional polished brass jobbers that I don't exactly fancy. The results are lovely, although the photograph (photo 1) does not exactly capture the subtle nuances of the lustre of the M.O.P.

I put together a casual spring ensemble as well showcasing the jacket (photos 2 & 3) to try and illustrate the versatility of the lighter buttons. The blazer can, of course, also be worn in any other circustance where one would wear a navy blazer, be it with khakis and a button-down collar shirt for an old-school preppy aesthetic, or with dressier grey trousers and a tailored spread collar shirt for more formality. As shown here, the less conventional M.O.P. buttons allow the perfect "reason" for the blazer to accompany a more casual ensemble, and dress up casual wear without appearing too pretentious.

In photo 2, notice the brightly colored shirt under the plaid button-down. This shirt accents some of the color in the plaid, but also allows for a nice layering of colors, an effect achieved by the luminescent buttons first, followed by the colorful plaid, and finally the brightly colored "under" shirt. Note also the pocket square, which, in the wake of the casual wear returns a little bit of "respectablility" to the blazer. This ensemble is not designed necessarily to be the point behind the post, but I'd previously mentioned a follow-up to the last reader's question post about spring-wear and wanted to include some images that might inspire ways to let that blazer with M.O.P. buttons shine this spring. Ultimately, I'd love to see some reader's looks that make use of white buttons as well. Send any pictures of your inspired outfits for spring on to me and we'll get them posted.

Thanks for tuning in.

Cheers!

-Paul

Congratulations, Jeff

2010-03-08T12:49:00.003-05:00

Paul Walters on Style wishes a resounding measure of congratulations to Jeff Bridges on his first Oscar win last night.

Jeff: you are the best and an all time favorite. All I can say is... "It's about time!" Thank you for your years of wonderful work. We can't wait to see more.

Cheers!

-Paul

More on Domenico Vacca

2010-03-05T16:23:00.000-05:00

Okay... I can't leave Domenico Vacca's mention in a post about Will Ferrell. These videos pay homage to the work of the man himself. Keep in mind that the stitching shown in these videos is designed to be highly visible in order to show detail. It can be kept as bold or as inconspicuous as a client desires.

Style Icon... Will Ferrell??!?!!

2010-03-05T13:00:00.000-05:00

I know what you're thinking. Will Ferrell? Funny, yes, but stylish? I myself can think of more ways that he's not, but in the 2006 film Stranger Than Fiction, Will Ferrell stars as quite possibly the country's only IRS agent to be dressed in impeccable suits and shirts by Domenico Vacca. Vacca is a tailor who's threads have been described as "the Ferrari of clothing," and he has dressed stars such as Dustin Hoffman (both personally and in the same film of which I now speak), Forest Whitaker, Mickey Rourke, Denzel Washington, Joe Pantoliano, and, well... the list goes on.

The video included above shows a sampling of a couple of Ferrell's wardrobe items in the film. Note also the plaid lining of his Burberry trench coat as his character, Harold Crick, runs to catch the bus. The way that Harold dresses in the film is not an attribute that one could easily infer based on the way he is described in the film's opening segment (or by the actor assuming his role), but that is, I guess, the magic of Hollywood. When budget is left up to the world of the cinema, we are occasionally afforded the opportunity to see fine clothes like Vacca's in action, and aside from the fantastically original storyline of Stranger Than Fiction, the clothes alone make the film worth watching. Check it out. The video above may get you hooked!
Cheers!
-Paul

*check out Vacca's website at http://www.domenicovacca.com/.

Style In It's Purest Form

2010-03-02T22:40:00.001-05:00

"Do not let others look down on you because you are young, but set forth an example..."

1 Timothy, 4:12

Okay... I know, I'm reaching, here. Forsaking context when quoting scripture. But this Biblical reference popped into my head tonight when my three-and-a-half year-old son approached me tonight with explicit instructions on how I needed to help him get dressed.

It has been snowing today, you see, and my wife asked my son if he'd let her take him walking in the snow. My boy, Benjamin, required very little consideration prior to issuing his reply. "Yes," Ben said. "I'll go get dressed." Benjamin ran upstairs to his room and began preparing himself to brave the cold as my wife did the same in our bedroom. A few moments later Benjamin ran back into our kitchen where I stood cooking, and said "Dad! I need your help!" I turned and looked down to see a very well put-together young man.

I asked him, "Did you pick out your clothes, Benjamin?" "Uhh... yeah," he replied. He may as well have said "duh," but his tone of voice said it loud and clear, so he stuck with the polite response. I asked what I could help him with and Ben explained that he wanted his scarf tied by folding it in half and pulling the two ends through the loop around his neck, so that the scarf's fire truck insignia could be displayed in the empty triangle where his denim shirt was unbuttoned, and since he was already wearing mittens, he needed me to zip up his outer jacket.

I did what he asked, and then looked him over. I realized that I had to take pictures to preserve the first moment where I had been schooled by my kid. My son knew exactly how he wanted his clothes to appear on him. He had his rubber Wellies (with frog faces on them) peeking out from the bottom of his corduroy cargo pants, his denim shirt peeking out from beneath his Lightning McQueen "letter jacket" hoodie, embroidered fire truck on his scarf sitting adjacent to the embroidered car on his jacket... I was impressed.

And then I realized that this kid has grown up watching me get dressed in the morning. He's shopped with me. He's paid attention to the way I've played around with color, and with layering, and with quirkiness. And then it hit me. Damn. This kid's got style. In fact, this is what style is all about. It's not that the outfit in itself is spectacular, but he's three, and here he has assembled an outfit of various articles of clothing all purchased at different times by different people. He put them together in a way that expressed his personality and he knew in his mind's eye precisely what function every component was to serve. He even told me how to tie his scarf. And this is a kid who has no concept of labels and designer branding... just a kid who understands the essence of what works and what doesn't.

We should all be so lucky.

Cheers!

-Paul

Esquire's Best Dressed Real Man Competition

2010-03-01T17:29:00.010-05:00

Hello all! I have been meaning to enter Esquire Magazine's Best Dressed Real Man in America competition for the past 3 years, and for some reason have always seemed to miss the entry deadline. This year, I officially entered. I'm not sure how I'll fair, but the chance to win an IWC Portuguese wristwatch is enough for me to throw my name in the hat! I implore my faithful readers to check out the site at Real Man Profiles and give me your vote! Thanks so much. Here are a couple of the pics I posted. Thank you all for your patronage.

Cheers!

-Paul

An Earful of Style: Billy Joel

2010-02-28T17:37:00.000-05:00

It's not about how he dresses. In fact, most of the later images of Billy Joel show him dressed in a black suit with a black t-shirt underneath; uber-monochromatic. But damn. Just listen to the soul in his voice, the perfection in the notes he chooses to play on piano, the emotion that comes through his voice, and the feeling that stirs inside of you when one of his songs comes on. Especially this one, Vienna. Tell me that ain't style. Cheers!

Reader Question: Wardrobe Upgrade for Spring

2010-02-27T11:05:00.000-05:00

Paul- Thanks for keeping this blog going. I Enjoy it very much. I am seeing a lot of advertising for the Spring 2010 wardrobe already. I feel like I just got done buying for fall and winter and am a little overwhelmed. Is there a simple way to make some of what I already have more oriented toward spring without buying a whole new wardrobe? I have a navy blazer that I wear a lot, and it's an all-season fabric. What can I wear with this to look like I'm keeping up?
Thanks, Nate P. -Auburn, Georgia
Thank you, Nate, for writing in. You pose a terrific question. I too have my regrets about the dawn of a new season. I always look forward to fall and winter, especially because of the way this time of year lends itself to layering colors and textures. I always find myself excited when spring is around the corner, because I get to break out some of the things that have just been hanging around in my closet for six months, but then I become quickly bored with the warmer weather and feel like I have to buy more stuff.

Now that we are in a recession from hell thanks to frivolous government spending and the transference of the burden onto the American taxpayer, "buying more stuff" is becoming less and less of an option. The nation is stressed and its people are strapped. It's time to "re-purpose" your already existing wardrobe. Here is one thing I have in mind, regarding the navy blazer you mentioned.

I assume when you said that your blazer is constructed of an "all-season" fabric that it is a tropical wool or a cotton blazer. I have one of these, too. Because I have a heavier worsted wool blazer which I wear in colder months, I typically reserve my tropical wool blazer for spring, summer, and early fall. When I got it it was, of course, adorned with shiny brass buttons. I'm not a big fan of brass buttons, as cheap and expensive blazers alike bear them, so I like something a little different to make my jacket more unique. My cool weather blazer sports antique silver buttons. My tailor is currently tweaking my spring wardrobe, and I'm having him add white mother-of-pearl buttons (see photo 1) to my warm weather blazer (yes, the one pictured has a hole in it where the pearl was over-polished. That's why I have it to photograph and my tailor doesn't have it to attach to my jacket!).

I suggest this for you as well. You can always change the buttons back when the weather gets cooler again, or you can leave them as is, but white buttons can be found for little expense and will completely change the look of your blazer. I will post pics of the finished product when I pick the blazer up, but for now, here is a pic (photo 2, borrowed from The Sartorialist) of a gentleman rocking the navy blazer with white buttons. As you can see, this lightens up a wardrobe staple and gears it toward the warmer season.

As far as the advertising for Spring 2010 goes, on this blog I try to focus more on enduring style rather than what is being pushed in the fashion world. Anything that I suggest is going to be geared more towards consistency and timelessness. I will talk about "Spring", but not about a particular year. We want to be able to "build" a wardrobe, and not to cycle things out season after season. Now certain colors, for example, may be used more by designers in a particular year, and at that point, wearing a tie or scarf comprised of "in the now" colors will make all of the timeless elements of your wardrobe look more current. That's cool. But trends should be avoided like the plague. The Day-Glo colors that were popular last spring? Done and gone. Popular when Back to the Future II came out, and then popular last year. Try to focus more on what will look good each spring rather than this spring. The white blazer buttons are a perfect example.

Add light colors to your ensemble by way of ties and pocket squares. A pair of white chinos would be a good thing to invest in for the spring and summer as well, as they will work with every thing from your navy blazer to a t-shirt and boat shoes (photos 3, 4, and 5 attest to their versatility... these photos are also property of The Sartorialist). With maybe one or two new purchases, what you have will work wonders for you. Start by hunting down some new buttons. Let me know how you do! Cheers!

Stefano Ricci

2010-02-24T18:47:00.000-05:00

Stefano Ricci has designed men’s clothing for over 30 years. His line, with suits costing up to $30,000, is considered the most luxurious and expensive in the world. Enjoy this video, and experience the paramount of Italian luxury clothing. Cheers!
-Paul

Style Icon: Alain Delon

2010-02-18T14:21:00.000-05:00

Once hailed as the french James Dean and the male Brigitte Bardot, Alain Delon has always been stylish and exceptionally cool. He laid the groundwork for Matt Damon's role in The Talented Mr. Ripley, starring as Tom Ripley nearly four decades earlier in Plein Soleil (Purple Noon), the first adaptation of Patricia Highsmith's celebrated novel (The Talented Mr. Ripley).
Whether immaculately tailored or in leisure dress, Alain Delon always epitomizes style and looks comfortable and nonchalant in whatever he wears. He's a master of fit and proportion, which is probably why aside from acting, Alain Delon is known abroad for his stores which sell everything from perfume and cologne to finely tailored suits and wristwatches. Currently 74 years old, Delon is still a representation of impeccable style. Peruse these images, taken from all stages of Delon's career, and see for yourself. Cheers!

The Pen Is Mightier... James Bond's Choice

2010-02-16T12:23:00.000-05:00

It has been called mightier than the sword. Its use can be attributed to the loss of millions of dollars, the death of millions of people, and the start of millions of dreams. One of the often overlooked accessories that is truly essential to the stylish man is a simple one: the pen. How many times have we had to borrow a cheap Bic Roundstic in order to sign off on a document of great importance, degrading the stylish natures of our signatures, which can be just as recognizable as our faces and may be the simplest testaments of our creativity? I'm sure that the best answer to this question would be "too many."

Carrying one's own pen, loaded with smoothly flowing jet black ink can add ample points to one's cool factor. It can up the appeal of your print, and can be the difference between getting hired for a job and having your application thrown away without a glance. When I was in charge of hiring for a previous employer, I provided a red pen to anyone who asked to borrow one when applying for a job. Applications written in red were not even considered. The long and short of all of this? Carrying your own pen will at some point prove to be the difference between your being taken seriously and being disregarded.

Now, that being said... what kind of pen should you carry? Mont Blanc pens are lovely yet very expensive, but are unarguably one of the most recognizable manufacturers of writing instruments. Their trademark white star prominently adorns the caps of their wares, spurring an instantaneous thought in the minds of those who see it. That thought may easily be, "Hey, nice pen." It may also be "How utterly pretentious." Not worth the risk if you ask me. I want to be taken seriously. I don't want my pen to tell people that I'm a jerk. They should be able to find that out on their own!

All joking aside, here's what I carry: the Parker Jotter (photo 1) . Undergoing very little change since its release in 1954, the Jotter is sleek and it looks professional. It shows that you put thought in carrying a pen with you, but not that you want everyone to know how much your pen set you back. It can be outfitted with gel or rollerball cartridges, and with its brushed stainless steel exterior oozes cool, minimalist style. The Jotter is reliable, doesn't leak, and it isn't bulky.

And the coolest thing about the Parker Jotter (other than its $10.99 price tag)? In 1995's GoldenEye (photo 2) , Peirce Brosnan's James Bond carries one in the pocket of his Brioni suits, proving that a man's stylish pen doesn't have to be proportionate in cost to a man's stylish threads. Now, Bond's pen actually doubled as a class 4 grenade and was a hell of a lot mightier than a sword, so I'm not saying all who carry a Parker Jotter possess the negotiating power of James Bond, but my point is this; Q Branch outfitted Bond with a pen that was functional, befitting of a well-dressed gentleman, and that did not draw unnecessary attention to itself. It is precisely that, gentlemen, that you're looking for.

Until next time,

Cheers!

-Paul

Hello, Again...

2010-02-11T15:04:00.000-05:00

Dear readers, I write to you today with great embarrassment as it has been 12 days since my last post. I offer my most humble apology; I haven't any excuses, but reasons why abound, including an out-of-town trip and a lot of time in a new administrative position at my day job. Other than this brief contrition, I'd like to jump right back in to things where we left off.

Today I thought I'd touch on plaids. Since we are entering the time when much ado is made about spring, lets hold on to what little bit of the cooler months we have left, shall we?

Very popular this fall/winter season has been the Scottish Black Watch tartan in trousers, scarfs, shirts, and the like. The Black Watch tartan is representative of the 3rd Battalion of the Royal Regiment of Scotland, an infantry batallion whose darkly colored tartan coupled with their charge of "watching" the highlands made way for the coining of the name "Black Watch". The colors look great together, too. Rich greens, blues, and black make the Black Watch perfect for clothing and accessories... at least many designers have thought so this year.

I myself picked up a tie in the Black Watch, and decided to pair it with a shirt with a fine Glen plaid weave. I thought it to be a nice little juxtaposition of patterns, and similar patterns, nonetheless. Photos are included, and the second one enlarges quite nicely!

What makes this plaid on plaid combo work, of course, is the subtle scale of the Glen plaid sitting as a backdrop to the bolder presence of the Black Watch.

Yes, my post is but a tidbit today, and I am going to get back on schedule. Thanks for bearing with me!

Cheers,

-Paul

Luxury Overseas

2010-01-29T19:37:00.000-05:00

A blog that I admire very much, http://welldressed.blogg.se/, posted this video. I'm sorry. I must post it as well. That way my family will know that when I die, I want my ashes scattered here. Oger, in Amsterdam, Holand. Enjoy the video, and check out Welldressed blog.

Stylish Promise

2010-01-25T12:58:00.001-05:00

Hello all. The upcoming film From Paris With Love, featuring John Travolta as a bald, goateed, trigger-happy CIA assassin and Johnathan Rhys Meyers as his desk-jockey straight man looks like it could be awful. The previews hint at huge amounts of novelty with questionable substance. It also looks as if it could be fantastic. It could be the perfect blend of action and witty dialogue. It could be Travolta's best work in this genre since 1997's Face/Off with Nicholas Cage, where both actors faced the challenge of playing each other's character and had to learn two sets of mannerisms, facial expressions, and speech patterns (masterfully done, even if in a heavy-action/not-so-heavy substance piece).
What the film does appear to promise to be is stylish. Set design looks impeccable. Travolta's bohemian-tough guy makes perfect use of leather jackets and scarves, while Rhys Meyers is draped in suits of impeccable tailoring. Here is a clip from the film, not seen on TV. You all be the judge, and let me know what you think of the coming attraction.
Cheers,
Paul

Reader's Question: The Pink Shirt

2010-01-22T15:34:00.000-05:00

Reader:
Paul,
I like your blog and agree with most of your opinions, so I decided to ask you a question to get your take on something... the pink dress shirt. I've always stuck to white or blue and have appreciated a more traditional style, but my girlfriend suggested I try pink and I wanted to see if you could offer any tips on how not to look too... "floofy", if you know what I mean. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks,
Corey S., Chelsea, Massachusetts

First of all, Corey, thanks for writing. You are, believe it or not, the first reader to write in with a question in a year of blogging. I'll take that to mean I must be reaching a broader audience. Far out. In regard to your question, I've long wanted to write a post on the pink shirt, but a couple of other bloggers I respect have done so, so I skipped it. But you, sir, have provided me the perfect opportunity, and consequently I must salute you.

I must first mention that the nature of the color pink whittles away at the security of many a man. It is not bad to feel squeamish about entering foreign territory. But as Jude Law says in the opening of 2004's Alfie, "If you ooze masculinity like some of us do, you have no reason to fear pink". And, yes, I've included the video clip of this opening segment here for your enjoyment. The truth is, pink is actually quite flattering to the complexion of many men. It adds more color to your face and makes you look healthier, and here is a fact that not many folks know: originally, pink was a color associated with little boys, and powder blue with little girls. The reason for this is that pink is derivative of red and suggests masculinity and strength, while blue was thought to be calmer and fairer, suggesting passivity like the fairer sex. It's true. Look it up.

So now I'm sure you're wondering when I'm going to tell you how to wear it. Well, the first suggestion is made by Jude Law's Alfie in the video: wear a pink shirt to spice up an otherwise understated suit and tie combo. A black suit with a dark solid tie makes you look like one of four things when worn with a white shirt; a) a mourner b) an undertaker c) a chauffeur d) a hit man (or Reservoir Dog... take your pick). Wearing a pink shirt adds a bit of personality to an otherwise bland ensemble. Granted, Alfie's character is indeed a chauffeur in the film, but doesn't look like one without his tell-tale cap and Town Car limo. Pink looks great with navy and grey suits as well, again bringing a little spice to the understated and simple.

The other way to wear a pink shirt is to accent it with a complimentary necktie. Now, complimentary doesn't mean your tie has to have pink in it. It can, but shouldn't scream I'm wearing f*ckin' PINK!!!!! Since doubling up on the pink requires a bit of practice and may too quickly nudge at your comfort zone, I'd suggest a tie with some red in it, which is obviously in the same color family without directly echoing the hue. I've included an example using items from my own wardrobe (pictured). In this ensemble, the red flower petals in the tie are complimentary to the pink in the shirt. The navy blue background of the tie corresponds with the jacket. Yes, my pocket square is pink as well, but a simple white cotton or linen square would be fine (pink on pink may require a little experimentation and or practice).

Here are a couple of things to consider, which are of course, my opinion. Don't mix pink with pastel colors outside of the color family, unless you want to look like a f*ckin' Easter Egg. Then you absolutely will look "floofy". Also, according to a good friend with a self-described "unflattering complexion for pink," some African American men cannot wear pink because of their skin tone. Very dark or light-skinned men can, but men who already have a bit of a reddish pigmentation in their complexion can seem to appear overpowered by the color pink. My friend with such a complexion brought this to my attention when I once suggested he wear a pink shirt. "Paul," he said. "I don't wear pink. Tried it. It just doesn't work." Obviously, I would submit to all of you to be the judge of your own complexion issues. But now, I've mentioned it, so it can be food for thought.

Thank you, Corey for writing in. I hope this helped. If there are any other questions you may have, feel free to drop me a line. Until next time, Cheers!

-Paul

The Fine Print

2010-01-21T14:10:00.000-05:00

Can we all agree that men need to have a little fun every once-in-awhile? Okay... obviously a redundant question. I'm sure we all agree. We all have ways of getting our kicks, both publicly and privately, don't we? Sure, skydiving is a blast. Mountain climbing. Paintball. Streaking, if it's your thing. But certainly, fun doesn't have to come in the form of an activity suited for the X-Games, nor does it have to come at the risk of an indecent exposure charge. Sometimes we are forced to find fun within the confines of life's banalities. Perhaps we like-minded sartorial aficionados try to find fun in getting dressed.

One of my guilty pleasures has always been my almost ritualistic selection of an ensemble the night prior to suiting up for work in the morning. My wife picks on me for it; mentions it at inopportune moments in front of her friends, commenting on my obsessive nature with an accompanying chuckle. But let's face it; she loves it. I can guarantee that she secretly admires my love of clothing... loves having a husband who's fun to go shopping with... one who can objectively help her shop rather than stand around looking at looking at his watch and complaining about having to walk through the lingerie section... I digress. It is during my nightly selection of clothing articles that I look for ways to add a fun, playful element to getting dressed. In doing so the clothing itself becomes almost ancillary to the joy of pairing shoes with a belt or a shirt with a tie.

In difficult times, as many of us now face, we must always remind ourselves to reclaim our joy. Part of the reclamation of my joy lies in the simplicity of possessing the confidence to embrace whimsy, not taking myself too seriously, but being a serious devotee to a lack of the serious. And here is, without further ado, one of my methods.

A playful print tie does not attack the sensibilities of a sartorial enthusiast, but serves to compliment a choice in finery. Now, allow me to clarify; a playful print tie is still professional. A novelty tie, however, is not. Pictures of Santa Claus and bottles of Tabasco sauce, when pictured on a tie, make that tie a novelty tie, which, I'm sorry, but no well-dressed man should ever wear. I understand having such a tie in one's closet; such items are commonly bestowed upon men by their children on Father's Day and such. Throwing the gift away would be just plain wrong. Almost as wrong as actually wearing it. Do you get my drift? Okay. I will proceed.

A playful print tie, such as this one by Hermes (pictured) injects an outfit with a spirit of fun through it's subject, but maintains structure and professionalism in the quality of its construction and the geometric perfection of its repeating pattern. Salvatore Ferragamo, Charvet, Burberry, and Gucci are also known for their high-quality printed ties. Now why, you ask, should printed ties be considered rather than woven ties? Well first of all, the added thickness of a woven pattern can add bulk and can sometimes make for a more chunky knot. Not necessarily a bad thing with a cheap tie, but with a tie that is already made with substantial heft and balance due to the use of high-quality silk and a densely folded construction, the added substance can make even a four-in-hand knot look curiously large.

Secondly, the vibrance of color that can be seen in a print can be lost in the makeup of a weave. The pictured tie is a great example. The rabbit's blues gleam and the white in the sparkles at the tips of the magic wands almost seems to glow. The three-dimensional element of a woven pattern breaks up light and takes the focus off of the color. A printed tie can be busier than a woven jacquard without looking like there is too much going on.

Keep in mind that the idea of the tie here is just an example of the true point of this post. We're talking about fun. We're talking about reclaiming our joy. I will reitterate that the clothes or the shoes or the ties ar what have you are ancillary to the fun that we can have with the things we love. I hope you've been inspired in one way or another. Have fun. As famous journalist Helen Thomas once said, "Life is too short to drink the house wine." As I say; "Live accordingly."

Cheers.

Paul

Anniversary Post, January 16th, 2010... (and Sneakers!)

2010-01-16T16:44:00.000-05:00

Hello all. Today is the one year anniversary of the creation of this blog! The content has at times drifted from the original idea of providing information and photos of local sartorialists and fashion lovers and has become more dedicated to tips, trends, and staples, but I appreciate those who have stuck with me all year. Nikki: you were my first follower who encouraged me to post often. If you're still reading, thank you. I felt that the anniversary date required a little bit of recognition, but I'm not going to wax sentimental here and wear you all out by turning nostalgic. We have a style blog to write!

Today we're talking sneakers. For a while now, magazines such as Esquire and GQ (and Details, I'm sure) have featured the occasional photo of a suit paired with sneakers. I am often asked by people that I meet, after mentioning that I write and consult about style, what things can be done to bring an edge to otherwise conservative dress. This, my friends, is one of them. Pair sneakers with a suit or sport jacket.

Now, I'm not going to discuss ad nauseum the multitude of ways to pair sneakers with different articles of more formal attire, but be it with a suit, khakis and a blazer, jeans and a sport coat or what have you, I will say this: Think minimalism. Think classic. Think simple. Go for a sneaker with history, like Converse All Stars (pictured) or Jack Purcell's (J. Crew offers a "broken-in" Jack Purcell), Keds Champions, or Adidas Stan Smith's. Each of these models has been around for decades and have remained relatively unchanged. Avoid bright and loud colors. Go for something in a neutral, respectable color, such as navy blue, white, or bisque (leave day-glo to Kanye West). And be respectful... this is not a look for church, business, or funerals, no matter how fancy the sneakers. It's still a sneaker. This is a night out look. A casual Friday look... an MTV music awards look... you get the drift.

Common Projects (favored by well-dressed crooner Justin Timberlake and blatant tool-fop rapper Kanye West) offers a boutique line of sneakers based off of many of the classic designs mentioned above. The Converse All Stars in the picture, however, cost about $300 less than a pair of Common Projects. Buy according to your budget (I sure did)! In terms of pairings, start with khakis and a blazer. Pretend that you are Owen Wilson's character in The Wedding Crashers, enjoying some of Christopher Walken's New England hospitality. Pretend that you have a weekend party in the Hamptons... whatever. If you can make the sneakers work with khakis and a blazer, only then should you move on to suits. REMEMBER THAT, and YOU'LL DO FINE!!!
Thanks for a great year.

Cheers,
-Paul

Brooks Brothers, 50% Off

2010-01-13T12:50:00.001-05:00

Just as an FYI, for those who don't know, Brooks Brothers is currently having (or are currently having, grammatically speaking) its (their) 50% off Winter Clearance Sale. I don't know exactly when the sale ends, but it's the perfect time to save. The reason I bring this up is because of my New Years Eve post regarding bow ties. Brooks Brothers has (or is it have?) a lovely selection of bow ties, hand-made in the USA out of fabrics woven in England. A multitude of styles are available half off, like the one pictured here that I picked up a couple of days ago.

Check out the sale while it lasts!
Cheers,
Paul

*If anyone knows whether Brooks Brothers should be referred to as an it or a they, singular brand or plural persons, please let me know. As a left-brain word analyst the uncertainty is driving me nuts!

Shoe Grooming

2010-01-08T19:24:00.000-05:00

If anyone out there is a self-professed "shoe queen" (believe it or not, Arnold Schwarzenegger has defined himself with this term), than the importance of shoe maintenance is obvious. Caring for one's shoes prolongs the service life of the footwear. Polishing alone, however, does not actually do the trick. A woman who puts makeup on her face everyday is going to suffer from horrendous skin problems if she does not wash her face and apply moisturizer prior to "putting on her face" and after er... taking it off again at day's end.

Awkward analogies aside, proper cleaning and moisturizing of our leather shoes will keep them feeling softer, looking new longer, and prevent drying and cracking, insuring years of comfortable wear (providing that they're not crappy shoes made of highly lacquered corrected-grain leather... in which case this post can be disregarded; the lacquer won't let the conditioner absorb).

What I suggest to you gentlemen, and ladies who may be reading, is that one use a leather conditioner on his or her shoes to clean and moisturize the leather. Meltonian Leather Balm and Kiwi Leather Lotion (pictured) are great choices. Use is simple: work small amounts into the leather with soft cloth. Allow to absorb for a few minutes. Buff. It's that simple. Afterward the leather will be softer and exhibit a soft lustre. One can polish afterward if one so desires, but it may not even be necessary. Best judgement is the key.

Obviously, doing this often will give the best results, but it's relatively easy and a relatively quick

process. Trust me. The shoes pictured here are the same Ferragamos from the last post, although they are now shown after using Kiwi Leather Lotion and no polish. Looks good, if you ask me. And even if you didn't ask... you are reading my blog.

Until next time,

Cheers!

-Paul

When eBay Goes Right!

2010-01-06T15:52:00.000-05:00

I thought I'd share with you one of the joys of eBay: taking a risk and completely scoring. I found these shoes on eBay in my size, crafted by none other than premier Italian shoe maker Salvatore Ferragamo. Online they looked like hell, but knowing Ferragamo's reputation for using high quality soft, buttery leather for their shoes, I figured that a little conditioning would go a long way.

I was looking for a pair of simple medium-brown cap-toes and these fit the bill to a T, but they definitely looked like they had quite a few miles on them. The soles, however, seemed to be very much intact without any spots of highly concentrated wear; one of my specifications when buying shoes on eBay is that I need not resole them.

There were some spots on the leather and the pictures showed what appeared to be heavy creasing, but again with buttery glove-grade leather, creases are not at all the end of the world. When I received them I was very optimistic. The shoes needed new laces, a spare pair of which I had on hand. Prior to re-lacing them I applied two coats of a brown cream polish and let each coat soak in for 30 minutes, buffing in between each coat. I then applied two coats of Kiwi neutral wax polish for a nice shine (again buffing between each coat). Cedar shoe trees and a couple of wears with newly conditioned leather knocked the heavy creases right out. Before (top) and after (bottom) pictures are shown here.

These shoes appear to be from Ferragamo's upper mid-line, and would have originally retailed for somewhere in the neighborhood of $550 to $595. On eBay, shipping included, I paid less than 10% of that price. This goes to show that the higher the quality of a used item, the easier restoration will be. I am very proud of the way these fantastic shoes turned out. They fit like a second skin. The leather is amazingly soft and supple. I could play baseball in them if I wanted to, remaining comfortable through all 9 innings. Take a risk with something truly fantastic at a thrift store or on eBay. You may find something that is (or that can be conditioned to be) as good as new while still being kind to your wallet. Enjoy the search!

Until next time,

Cheers.

-Paul

Getting Good (Sleeve) Head

2010-01-05T14:54:00.000-05:00

Many off-the-rack suits feature shoulders that are heavily padded. That's just the way it is. A shoulder pad can hide less than fantastic workmanship, and also provides an artificial structure for a suit maker to build from. Even very high-end off-the-rack suits may feature shoulder pads because of the lack of the buyer being present when the suit is constructed. The same is the case for made-to-measure and semi-bespoke suits. Simply stated, without the customer present it is hard to build a flattering shoulder on a suit jacket or sport coat.

There was a dark age in sartorial history when large shoulder pads were in style, but thank God, we've moved on from those days of yore. I mention frequently the importance of finding a good tailor. A good tailor is one that is not only adept at performing alterations, but one who is also a custom tailor... meaning he can build a custom suit or shirt for you himself if commissioned. I have such a tailor who does fantastic work. The nice thing about having such a resource is that your custom tailor can restructure a jacket shoulder for you as if he were building your suit bespoke.

There are two main types of shoulder sleeve heads that one will encounter (there are more, but in the absence of padding they are all a variation on one of these two) on a jacket. The first (photo 1) is a natural shoulder. The natural shoulder follows the curvature of your actual shoulder beneath the jacket. The line between torso and sleeve is relatively smooth (sometimes the area where the sleeve is attached shows pleating, as in Neapolitan sleeve heads. I will cover the Neapolitan sleeve head on its own in a future post). There is no shoulder padding necessary as the jacket sleeves are fashioned almost like shirt sleeves. This type of sleeve head can be found on Ivy-league, preppy-style clothing as offered by Southwick or J. Press, and can also be found in some Italian tailoring (again, we will cover the clothing of Naples in the near future).

The other main type of sleeve head is the roped shoulder (photo 2). The roped shoulder gets its name because of the bump where the sleeve attaches to the torso, appearing as if a rope lays beneath the fabric of the sleeve. The roped shoulder needs to fall exactly where the picture shows, which is why having the wearer of the suit present when the jacket is being made is exceptionally helpful. This can be done with very accurate measuring in made-to-measure wear, but pads are often still employed since the fabric is not following the lines of an actual body upon construction.

I must say that some guys will be able to get suits or blazers/sport coats off-the-rack that fit them perfectly in the shoulders and the body. All designers use fit models (or an individual on whose form a suit pattern is based) when styling and designing suits, so if a lucky guy's size and stature match up with a fit model, score. For most of us, however, we require skilled tailors to make a suit or jacket look as if it was made for us. My tailor has done it for me, and the pictures on this post are examples. Find one who makes it his personal mission to flatter your form, and stick with him. Visit him often, and keep his fine craft alive.
Cheers,
Paul

Happy New Year!

2010-01-01T14:42:00.001-05:00

Happy New Year! How much worse can 2010 be than 2009? Let us all pray for better!
Thank you for your support. Keep reading!

It's New Year's Eve! Learn to Tie a Proper Bow Tie!

2009-12-31T12:26:00.001-05:00

Hello all! I hope you've all made designated driver/taxi plans for the evening! I very well may be staying in tonight, as I believe the police will be out in droves and a cab would be rather costly with all the stops I would have to make. If any of you are heading out this evening, I'm sure some will be attending the type of event where a bow tie should be part of one's ensemble. Pre-tied bow ties can be tempting for those who have not yet learned how to tie one, but a real, hand-tied bow tie is oh so much better!

Why not take this opportunity to learn to tie a proper bow tie? Even if you don't use your new-found knowledge this evening, the skill will come in handy someday when you don't have to wear an obviously fake pleated satin piece of crap. Bow ties are reaching a resurgence, and thanks to Ralph Lauren, Andre 3000, Jay-Z, Band of Outsiders and Brooks Brothers, they are epitomizing every type of cool from old-school prepster to rapper chic. You need at least one.
Today, compliments of GQ Rules, Band of Outsiders designer Scott Sternberg shows you the way to tie a bow tie correctly. The video has great angles and is one of the best I've found. Check it out. You still have plenty of time to practice before this evening.
Cheers, and Happy New Year!
-Paul

Making Your Skin Crawl

2009-12-30T12:58:00.000-05:00

Hello again; pardon the sebatical! The week has been quite busy. I hope everyone had a very merry Christmas. Today we're talking belts. I used to think that a man needed only one belt in his wardrobe: a reversible belt, brown on one side and black on the other, with a swiveling buckle allowing for an easy change between colors. Then, my shoe wardrobe began to expand, and I realized that different shades of brown required different belts. There is no way for one to appear as if he knows how to dress when his chocolate-brown wingtips are paired with with reversible belt "stock" chili-brown.

So I began to collect belts in varying shades of brown, keeping my reversible belt for use with black shoes, which I wear much less often. After amassing sufficient brown shoes and belts to match, I began acquiring more black shoes, and realized that a chintzy, reversible belt made my good shoes look cheap, and that one high quality black belt was required to complete my collection. I chose the belt in the bottom photo, a sleek looking alligator number from Ralph Lauren, with a silver buckle (if you don't wear gold jewelry, buy only silver buckles: NO gold). This did it. Not only does the belt look great, but simply having it inspires me to wear black shoes more often.

All of that being said (and thank you for bearing with my brief history of accessory consumption), I wanted to offer a suggestion for finding a classy belt. Exotic skins, such as lizard (top picture) or the aforementioned alligator are a little bit dressier than the smooth calf-leather belts that are more commonly seen. They can, however, be dressed down and worn with jeans. I like the exotic skins because they set the wearer apart a little bit more from the rest of the crowd. Everyone and their proverbial brothers sport belts without any character. Grab some attention from those who want to give it by having an accessory that pops!

Do remember, though, that it is very important that one invests in good belts. Cheap belts may be initially easy on the wallet, but the corrected grain leather (if leather at all: a lot are "pleather") will show wear very quickly and will crack and crease. The belt will eventually require disposal, but before it's thrown away the inferior belt will diminish the overall appearance of a polished outfit, cheapening the look of every other component.

One doesn't need to spend a fortune. Genuine alligator belts cost several hundred dollars, but high-quality embossed leather belts can be found for well under $100. One of the belts pictured above is the genuine article, and the other is embossed leather. Can you tell which is which? My lips are sealed, but the one that sells for well under $100 is still of exceptional quality. Just resist the temptation to spend ten bucks on a dress belt. You're all worth more than that.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Fashionably Functional

2009-12-21T14:16:00.001-05:00

Merry Christmas, guys. I hope the holiday shopping is not breaking you this year. With a freshly printed bonus check freshly deposited in my bank account, I am finally prepared to nab a thing or two. Today's post, however, is not a holiday gift guide. In fact, it has nothing to do with shopping at all (unless you're still shopping around for a proper tailor). Today is about little details that work. Function is our topic today, so here goes!

I am a huge proponent of the importance of function when it comes to my clothing. I like things to work the way that they appear they're supposed to. I wear a pocket square or pocket linen in the breast pocket of my sport coats because that's what the pockets are there for; they are designed to be functional and to display either a somber or brightly colored kerchief. I don't like snaps that are cleverly designed to look like buttons (my toddler's closet is riddled with clothing sporting this "feature"), and I really don't like buttons that are just sewn onto the sleeves of my jackets, serving no purpose other than sheer ornamentation.

I have some very nice jackets that have ornamental sleeve buttons, and for the price of some of them, one would think that all of the little details should be functional. This can be fixed, however, and I am in the process of making the correction to all of my jackets that didn't come with functional button holes (or "surgeon cuffs," as they're properly called) to start with. When you're looking for a tailor, find one who can, either by hand or by machine, add functional button holes to your jacket cuffs. I have had this done to about five or six of my blazers or sport coats (see photo), and I just love knowing that they work correctly.

Being a bit of a dandy, I like to leave one or two of my sleeve buttons unfastened (some purists may call this an affectation or a grotesque display of vanity, but I don't like those people anyway), allowing the sleeve to open a little bit more freely, and having the surgeon cuff procedure performed on my jackets gives me the freedom to do so. If it ain't your thing, fine. I don't think that a well made jacket looks like a poorly made jacket if the cuff buttons aren't functional, and conversely, crappy Malaysian-made wares that do have functional button holes don't necessarily look to be well made. Having surgeon cuffs certainly doesn't guarantee quality. But I like mine to work so I'm working it out.

A caution if you plan on having this done, however; make sure you will require no adjustment to the length of your sleeves prior to having the button holes made, or have the length adjusted at the same time. Once the new button holes are made, your length cannot be changed without great expense, if it can be changed at all.
I hope all of you have a wonderful Christmas. Someone pass the eggnog!

Cheers,
-Paul

Just in Time for Christmas: The official "Iron Man 2" Trailer!

2009-12-17T12:55:00.001-05:00

Here it is, just released, courtesy of marvel.com... The official trailer for Iron Man 2. The movie releases May 7, 2010. Dig Mickey Rourke as Whiplash... this flick appears to be bad ass. I can't wait. Oh, and nice suit on Robert Downey Jr. in the opening court room scene...

The "Everyday" Watch

2009-12-17T10:40:00.000-05:00

In Esquire magazine's Novemeber issue, attention was given to watches; specifically on building one's watch wardrobe to include a weekend watch, an everyday watch, and then the more exotic "Third" and "Fourth" watches. To focus on the majority of us who want maximum versatility, I wanted to emphasize today the importance of the "Everyday Watch," which should work well with casual wear as well as a two-piece suit and well-shined shoes.

The everyday watch should be professional and sensible, but at the same time, need not be a slim and uncomplicated dressy number. The everday watch should do more than tell you just the hour and the minute: functionality is very important here, so select a watch with one or more complications. To simplify the definition, complications are any features on the dial of a watch that do something other than tell the time. The most common complication is a date window, allowing one to reference the date as well as the time. Sometimes watches display a day of the week as well, which would serve as yet another complication.

Chronographs (stopwatch capabilites) are a handy feature, allowing us to get slightly indulgent when measuring elapsed time (yes, indulgent: you will at some point clock the time of everything from your coffee break to your convenience store run, no matter how unimportant the data). Automatic chronograph watches can get quite pricey, so this will probably mean searching for a nicer quartz version, but this will also insure paramount accuracy.

For an everyday watch, durability is also key. The amount of wear the watch receives may lend itself better to a metal band rather that leather; leather may wear like iron but can over the days and weeks and months and years get a little... funky. I'm sure you know what I mean.

The last (and possibly the most important) feature one should require for his everyday watch is an analog readout. We're looking for a professional watch that gives your credibility at the office here, so save the digital watch for the weekend. I repeat; "Your everyday watch should absolutely not be digital".

My everyday watch is shown above, and while I used to cycle through a multitude of watches throughout the week, this quartz chronograph from Swiss manufacturer Ebel has become my old trusty and works with about anything I could wear, short of a tuxedo. It measures elapsed hours, minutes, seconds, and get this... tenths of a second... the perfect feature to allow exceptional indulgence when clocking my coffee breaks.
Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Ralph Lauren at GILT

2009-12-17T10:14:00.000-05:00

Here is a Paul Walters on Style Public Service Announcement: Through midnight tomorrow Ralph Lauren footwear, as well as Purple Label garments and ties, are available heavily discounted at Gilt Group, an online members-only retailer who specializes in exceptionally high-end products at up to 70% off. If you're not a member, that's ok. Click the link below for an exclusive invitation.
http://www.giltman.com/invite/paulwaltersabc
Cheers!
-Paul

Winter Weather Shoe Solutions

2009-12-11T11:49:00.000-05:00

So here's the problem: Winter is approaching fast, and is sure to bring with it gnarly sidewalk and street conditions. Icy, possibly snowy, and plenty of slushy wet streets are in our future. This can be particularly dangerous for folks who appreciate the aesthetics of proper dress shoes, which when equipped with leather soles are not the best at providing traction on slick walkways. Ugly, thick rubber soles detract from the appearance of quality in a dress shoe, and are usually found on more casual shoes or cheaper dress shoes.

Today, readers, I offer a solution.

There are high-quality shoe makers who make shoes with lug-soled rubber that sits atop a leather sole, still maintaining a slim silhouette when your shoes are viewed from the top or side. Two examples are shown here; a chocolate brown wingtip by Ralph Lauren, and a black oxford by Allen Edmonds. Each of these maintains a classy, high-end appearance while giving the wearer a weapon against the hazards of adverse weather conditions. Each of these shoes is still constructed with a Goodyear Welt, rather than having a gaudy and clunky rubber sole glued to the bottom of an inferior shoe. The Allen Edmonds are shown at the top of the post and the Ralph Laurens are shown below, both from the top, and then the bottom allowing a view of the silhouette and then the secret weapon. Go out and snag yourself a pair!

Until next time,

Cheers!

-Paul

Winter Staple: The Flannel Suit

2009-12-10T13:21:00.001-05:00

'Tis the season to be jolly... and freakin' cold! The time of year is here where we're breaking out scarves, gloves, hats and topcoats to stave off the biting-cold temperatures. And good for us, lovers of style, that many of these items make great accessories. But what about the days when it's cold but not frigid; when there isn't any frost on your car windows in the morning but your breath still condenses in front of you? When gloves would be unnecessary and scarves cumbersome? At times like these one can stay warm, and remain comfortable throughout the day with the right choice of a suit.

The flannel suit (shown here with a lovely chalk-stripe pattern) is precisely the right thing to wear. Now, don't get me wrong... it works great with scarves and gloves and topcoats, but can stand alone as the perfect, uncomplicated cold weather barrier. The fabric alone shows that one knows how to dress for winter, and the character of the cloth's weight is both attractive and comforting.

Flannel suits work best in charcoals and grays. The color is complimentary to the texture of the material as well as the cool of the season in which we wear them. I think they work especially well with a crisp white shirt and pocket square (if wearing a pocket square). Often times a tonal gray tie that compliments the suit material is worn as well. A wool or rougher texture tie also shows that one knows how to dress for the colder weather, and emphasizes the texture of the suit (see photo 2, compliments of TheSartorialist).

The nice thing about charcoals and grays is that a wide array of shoes can be worn with them as well, from black to brown and from smooth calf to reverse calf (suede). Note also in TheSartorialist's photo the pairing of a suede chukka boot with the flannel suit. Again, because the texture of suede is complimentary to that of the flannel, this pairing works splendidly.

If a new cold weather suit is on the horizon for you, try one in flannel. It will wear like iron, last for years to come, and always be the perfect choice for colder seasons.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Required Listening: Hold On, by Tom Waits

2009-12-06T14:18:00.000-05:00

Regular readers know of my love for the music of Tom Waits, and I felt that another of his songs was due for viewers of this site. 1999's Hold On From the album "Mule Variations" brought Tom Waits to a broader listener base, as the song was not quite as quirky and industrially experimental sounding as much of Waits's other work.

His voice is still somewhat gravelly, the video still somewhat avant garde, but the song is mellow and very listenable; the imagery conjured by the lyrics very iconic, and the song is very good. Simple and straight-forward. Enjoy.

The Plaidness Madness

2009-12-02T14:05:00.000-05:00

Hello again all. I hope the Thanksgiving holiday was wonderful for all of you. The ensuing holiday chaos coupled with my charge of leading sales training seminars last month made my writings sparse, and I offer my most humble apology. I am now trying to get back into regular postings, so thank you for bearing with me. I figured I would start off December with the mention of a look that I've seen quite a lot this season, and after trying it out, I think the look works great!

Dress up the plaid shirt. With a suit or a nice blazer or sport coat, the right plaid shirt and tie combo is great for injecting color into an ensemble. With a suit, basic navy, black, or gray works best. Since the pattern in the shirt is pretty bold, one should abstain from a patterned suit, be it stripes or checks, regardless of pattern scale. You don't want to look like an optical illusion. With a sport coat, a faint pattern works, but the tie and the pants should be solid to balance out the look and avoid a case of ocular malaise... unless you want to look like a patchwork quilt.

When the pants and jacket are solid one can sport a patterned tie, but again, the busy nature of plaid requires an ode to minimalism. Bold stripes or a repeating logo should be the extent of the pattern. Stick with a dark tie and pick up one of the colors from the shirt, as I've done with navy in the pictured examples (click for large images). Have some fun with it though. The look works, so make it work for you.

Until next time,

Cheers!

-Paul

Reconsider the Navy Blazer, Part 2

2009-11-24T19:40:00.001-05:00

Not too long ago I posted an article about bringing back the navy blazer, a staple of yesteryear, who's resurgence as of late has been relatively minimal. Ralph Lauren's gotten it right, and so have a few other makers, but the versatility of a navy blazer reigns supreme in my book, especially when cut and fitted properly as mentioned before (and shown here). I would encourage my readers to read my previous post regarding the navy blazer. A link is provided here for your convenience http://tinyurl.com/navyblazer, tying the former post to this one.

My reason for bringing the blazer up again today involves something mentioned in the previous article: the buttons. I mentioned trading out the brass or gold buttons that typify a navy blazer with something different. At the time of the last article I had not found something that caused "my heart to burn within me", but now, I believe I have.
One of the sources I previously mentioned for finding buttons was the Goodwill Store, which is precisely the source of my new accouterments (see photo 2).

These are real silver to boot. The jacket they were formerly attached to was ugly and ill-fitting, but look on eBay for silver blazer buttons and tell me that $4.99 was a bad price to pay for the buttons alone, even if I had to scrap the jacket (I actually ripped the buttons off and then re-donated the jacket).
Anyhoo... I thought an after photo would benefit the before, so here it is (photo 1). If you haven't found your blazer (or your buttons) yet, keep looking. They await your discovery.
Cheers!
-Paul

Required Listening: Regarding Stacks, by Bon Iver

2009-11-19T17:10:00.000-05:00

This could very possibly be my most favorite song of all time. When I need to feel calm, I put this on; it is probably the most soothing song I've ever heard. Now, after learning how to play it, breaking out the guitar and playing this song is like a drug that settles my nerves and eases my mind.

There is no official video for this song, so here is a fan-made photo montage set to the album version of the song. Take some time out from your day and give this a listen. If you have some good headphones, use them. If you enjoy some good pot every once in a while (you know... on occasion, when you have a great song to listen to or you want to play "hip" parent to your teenage kids or you're having a party... whatever), smoke some. Just promise me that the first time you hear this song, it's not being played simply as "background music". Devote some time to it and let it soothe your soul.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul
-DISCLAIMER: The use of marijuana is not necessarily endorsed by Paul Walters on Style, as marijuana is illegal for some reason or another and therefore its use cannot be officially condoned by this website or its author.-

A Penny for Your Thoughts...

2009-11-12T13:55:00.001-05:00

Hello again! Today's piece (as an armchair journalist or columnist or whatever I am, I figure I can get away with calling my writings "pieces") concerns yet another wardrobe staple: the versatile penny loafer. Penny loafers as we know them today are an American evolution of the Norwegian leisure slippers of decades past. A brief history may not be neccessary, but I'm going to provide a short lesson regardless. Here we go...
Moccasin style leisure slippers were a popular production in Norway in the 1930's.
The Norwegians began exporting their unique shoes to the rest of Europe where they were adopted by visiting Americans and then introduced to the states by the American Esquire magazine.

In 1934, G.H. Bass (then a boot maker in Wilton, Maine) started making loafers marketed as "Weejuns" (a play on "Norwegians"). Bass made popular a strip of leather across the saddle with a diamond cut-out. Initially only worn in the summer at home, the shoe grew in popularity in America to become a significant part of men's casual shoe wardrobe. The loafers became more of a mainstay of the American wardrobe than they ever were in Europe.

Eventually American ingenuity inspired prep. school students to make use of the diamond shaped cutout atop the shoe. Aside from making a fashion statement, a dime placed in the cutout also assured that the price of a phone call was always at the wearers... er... fingertips (well, close enough). As the price of phone calls went up, pennies replaced dimes to maintain the fashion-statement while shelling out less coin, and eventually, the practice was abandoned altogether. The shoes, however, were not (nor was the term "penny loafer," a description which is still common today).

The penny loafer has remained a versatile shoe that can be dressed up or down, looking equally at home with a sport coat or blazer, white oxford-cloth-button-down, and dress trousers (Miles Davis became known for this look), or a white tee with jeans (James Dean invented this look, but in photo 2, borrows Davis's aforementioned ensemble). The shoes can be worn sockless in the summer and with socks in the cooler seasons. I'd say pair them with anything in between athletic wear and a suit on the formality spectrum.

My loafers (pictured in photo 1) are made by Allen Edmonds, a brand who's consistant quality and American provenance I adore, but many makers produce the penny loafer. G.H. Bass still makes their Weejuns in several price-ranges with variations on some of the more minor details, and while my Allen Edmonds are not an inexpensive pair of shoes, French shoemaker J.M. Weston's basic penny loafers start at about twice their price.
All of these options look very similar. All of them are just as versatile, and all of you can afford a pair.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Tom Ford Makes Movies

2009-11-07T17:01:00.000-05:00

This just in... Tom Ford, who shocked many purists when he was selected to dress James Bond in Quantum of Solace, is now again making waves on the silver screen... except this time, the movie is his own. A Single Man (based off of Christopher Isherwood's 1964 novel), starring Colin Firth and Julianne Moore comes out soon, and features Tom Ford's debut as a director and at penning a screenplay. Firth has already won a best actor award for his role in the film at the Venice Film Festival, and Oscar buzz abounds for both he and Julianne Moore.

Whether or not the clothes featured in the film will be designed by Ford (who was the former creative director of Gucci) I don't know yet, but the movie has been called visually dazzling, and a stunning and beautiful film debut by Tom Ford. The movie appears to be set in the late 50's or early 60's (1962 to be exact... the video provides a date). Costuming should rival Mad Men in the way of period wardrobing, surely giving Tom Ford a chance to compete with Brooks Brother's new Mad Men special edition suit. I'm looking forward to seeing it, as $10 for a movie ticket will probably be the only thing with Tom Ford's name on it that I'll ever be able to afford. Check it out in the video trailer.

Cheers,
Paul

Simple, but Ballsy

2009-11-07T12:04:00.001-05:00

Hello again!
Sorry; it has been a few days since my last post. Life has been busy. What can I say? My nine-week-old daughter got some shots and has been depressingly puny for the better part of the week, and as our doctor protests mine and my wife's strong stance against unnecessary vaccinations, there are still a few that must be administered, even under our own admission. Anyhoo...

Today we will again discuss the pocket square. I am a big pocket square advocate and fan, and I have many brightly colored silk pocket squares that I love to wear to amp up an outfit. Lately however, possibly because of the Mad Men influence, I have been favoring the snow-white cotton or linen square, pressed in a crisp TV fold, gently peaking out from above my pocket. The James Bond fold, where 1/8th to 1/4 of an inch of square politely asserts its presence, breaking the monotony of an otherwise conservative (eh... maybe not so conservative) ensemble.

I have, however, started to wonder what is wrong with me, the proverbial semi-dandy, whose collection of vibrant pocket squares has begun to virtually gather dust. I decided something must be done, and a happy medium had to be reached. Enter the patterned cotton handkerchief. Simple in its medium of construction, not unlike the plain white handkerchief that has become a staple, but slightly ballsy, displaying a tasteful pattern on its empty canvas.

Photo 1 shows a couple of examples, designed by David Chu of Nautica notoriety, one with a plaid pattern and one with a tasteful stripe. Pairing one of these squares with one's outfit pays an homage to minimalism, while at the same time projecting flair and panache. In photo 2, the pocket square echoes colors in the shirt with the lighter blues, and also the darker navy in the crest on the rep tie, brilliantly tying the components together. The plaid pattern also flirts with the sport coat's windowpane.

This example is not a limitation. My good friend David Watkins of Astor & Black custom clothiers recently wore a pocket square cut from the same fabric of one of his custom shirts, in a white undercolor with brown micro-check, paired with a brown tie. Combinations obviously abound, and pairings can include jacket pattern, shirt, tie... you get the idea.

The nice thing about these squares? Cheap. A box of 3 can typically run you around $20 at sources such as Brooks Brothers or department stores. Or, check out the outlet stores. A box of 3 patterned squares at TJ Maxx, for example, may be priced as low as $5.99.
Give it a try, and until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Learn to Tie a New Knot: The Pratt

2009-11-02T13:54:00.003-05:00

Today I wanted to share with you a clever way to knot your necktie. This knot gives you a nice, symmetrical triangle without the extra heft and bulk of a Windsor knot. It also uses less of the tie length to form the knot, and is better suited for shorter ties than a Windsor. If you'd like to avoid the asymmetrical look of the four-in-hand, give the Pratt knot a try.

It is also known as the Shelby knot and the Pratt-Shelby. The knot was invented by Jerry Pratt, an employee of the US Chamber of Commerce. He had been wearing his tie in the Pratt knot for some twenty years before it became popular after TV personality Don Shelby wore it on air. The New York fashion press then promptly (and mistakenly) attributed the invention of the knot to Shelby.

One of the interesting things about this knot is that tying it begins with the tie "inside out" around one's neck, with the back of the tie showing rather than with the front of the tie showing as is most common. The video provided perfectly depicts how to tie this knot.
Give it a go!
Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul
Photo 1 shows the finished product.

Seeing Red, Part 2

2009-10-30T12:49:00.000-04:00

Well here they are, in the flesh. These shoes fit true to size, and are very, very comfortable. The insole, shown in photo 2, has the perfect amount of padding and provides an excellent cushioning effect when walking. The suede uppers are soft and supple. All-in-all, a great bang for the buck.

I did shorten the laces, which were quite long, and I still feel the need to take them out and dye them red. The contrast of the white lace on the soft red upper may appeal to some, but I believe I'd like a more uniform appearance.
The red of the shoes is a nice balance between brick red and pink; my one reservation about dying the white leather laces is that they may turn out more pink looking, and therefore upset the balance of the overall shoe color.

The pebbled soles of the shoes, similar in appearance to those of Tod's (despite the absence of a few "pebbles"), provide excellent traction on slightly uneven ground. Granted, these are not an "outdoor" shoe, but the presence of a rubber sole makes wearing the shoes outside safer on the suede.

I look forward to peoples' reactions to these shoes. I'm sure I'll enjoy experimenting with appropriate pairings and discovering ways to wear them. If the red driving shoe is for you, my thoughts are that you will be well pleased with the price, quality, and comfort of this pair.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Seeing Red: The Red Driving Loafer (part 1)

2009-10-27T11:55:00.000-04:00

I have a pair of driving mocs in chocolate brown suede. I picked them up from Banana Republic about a year ago. They are constructed rather well, except for the fact that the man-made insole causes one's feet to sweat and slide around in the shoe when going sockless. The problem was solved by purchasing some of the small loafer booties offered by such retailers as Banana Republic or Journey's (although Target sells them for a much lower price in the women's hoisery department, in a large size that accomodates a male foot). The lesson learned here was to buy a loafer with a soft leather insole: no sweating, and consequently, no sliding.

In the Spring of this year, Esquire magazine published their now semi-annual Big Black Book of men's style, and featured a driving loafer in a spread about Italian style (pictured, left). What got my attention about these loafers was their color. Bright red. Nice. After several months of not being able to forget how freakin' cool these looked, I decided I had to get a pair. Suddenly, a new problem presented itself: $$$$$$! The Car Shoe brand driving loafers featured in Esquire go for $420 bucks! Major drat. I looked around and found that Tod's makes a pair as well. $450 bucks! While I may have some $400 shoes in my closet, none of them have a novelty element to them (such as a bright red finish) that would limit my ability to wear them with everything. I'm willing to fork out some coin for versatility, but I can't justify such an expense on a driving moc.

Then, I found these (photo 2). Shoe manufacturer Born makes a red driving loafer (the Lynch) for just a value meal over $100. SOLD! These have an attractive appearance, a leather insole, and are constructed using the Opanka hand-sewn technique, where the upper, the padding, and insole are sewn together in a single process. Sounds good to me.

Now these shoes have been featured on some other blogs; most notably Tweed & Velvet (there is a link in my Blog List), and I haven't received mine yet, so after they arrive I promise a review. One thing that I may do is remove the laces and dye them red for a more uniform appearance... I think the white laces may be slightly distracting from the overall effect. We shall see. It's nice to have the prospect of a comfortable pair of driving shoes. If these work well, I may have to invest in some of the other color options that Born has available. The navy pair looks nice too. Check out the available Lynch models on Born's website, through the link here.
http://tinyurl.com/born-lynch

Until next time,
Cheers!
Paul

Rethink the Navy Blazer

2009-10-22T19:06:00.000-04:00

Classics are hard to faze out. There was a time when a navy blazer was considered a staple for any man's wardrobe; a versatile jacket that could be paired with dress trousers and a tie for a day at the office or a meal at the country club, and worn with jeans and a polo shirt for a more casual approach was just the ticket for bridging the gap between the wearer appearing "dressed up" and "dressed down" (you can dress down an article of clothing. One does not, however, wish to appear dressed down on the whole). When worn with the former, the formality of a navy blazer would fall between that of a suit and a patterned sport coat. When worn with the latter, accessories can formalize or dress the jacket down just about as much as one likes.

When choosing a navy blazer, fit is paramount. The difference between looking like a reject from the masonic lodge and looking like a suave style maven depends on the fit. Slim jacket sleeves, proper shoulder positioning, and a trim-fitting waist are all things that today's navy blazer requires. Buying one as close to one's size as possible and having a good tailor give it a once over is crucial. If one is lucky enough to have a blazer fit properly off the rack, more power to ya, but my slender frame and broad shoulders mean that I almost always have to have the material rolling at the back of the jacket neck corrected. A good tailor is essential to the well-dressed man.

Another consideration that absolutely must be mentioned: the buttons. The traditional blazer buttons are a gold or brass color, and today, this doesn't sit well with many men. Perhaps the gold looks dated, perhaps it looks like one is trying to fake affiliation with an esteemed institution, perhaps you don't have a yacht... in any case, buttons can easily be replaced, and can be found at numerous online sources and fabric shops. Thrift stores, such as Goodwill or Salvation Army, also have blazers that one can buy simply to rob of buttons. 5 bucks for a set of buttons is a deal, even if the jacket they were once attached to doesn't make the cut. For button options, consider silver or pewter, or even mother of pearl (gray mother of pearl looks especially nice). Avoid leather covered buttons, as they can conjure up some of the same dated conceptions of gold or brass.

Photos 1 & 2 depict a navy blazer with proper fit. The buttons on this particular jacket are gold, and will remain so until I find proper replacements. I'm still scouting, and am looking for the absolute perfect set. My heart needs to burn within me. Note the texture of this jacket. The wool used has a soft, even hand, and is not the rougher, courser fabric that you saw on your father's blazer. This is another consideration. To maintain class and distinction, a finer fabric makes the blazer look even more timeless.

Small details are important too. Patch pockets, as shown in photo 1, are "back in style" and are even making appearances on suit jackets from very high-end clothiers. Also, a more narrow lapel, shown in photo 2 (no more than 3 inches at it's widest point), allows for a more modern interpretation of the blazer, after re-emerging from the 1960's style archives (thank you, Mad Men for bringing back the narrow lapel). Too much less than 3 inches is approaching the realm of trendy, so be careful... it may be okay on a suit, but on a navy blazer a somewhat traditional appearance is a good thing.

I hope I've given you some things to consider. Go find a navy blazer and rock it (it works really well with gray flannel trousers now that it's cooler). I will now leave you with a brief synopsis of the inception of the navy blazer, courtesy of www.tomjames.com.

In 1837 the Commander of the frigate H.M.S. Blazer was told that England’s young queen, Victoria, would soon inspect his ship. He took one look at the unsightly condition of his crew’s dress and decreed that they would get new uniforms. He decided on a short jacket with brass Royal Navy buttons.
There is a disagreement as to the color of those first Blazers. In one account, the jackets were striped navy and white; another reports a solid navy serge. In any case, Victoria was so favorably impressed by their attire that she required all the Queen’s sailors to be in similar uniform.

...so there you go.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Layers of Style

2009-10-19T11:56:00.000-04:00

It's Fall now guys. The air is cool and crisp, and our car consoles are pumping out heat instead of air conditioning. One of the most beautiful things about Fall, aside from the lovely changing of the leaves and the smells of cold air and dying foliage (yeah... it smells good), is the ability to add some presence to our outfits by layering. It's colder, and warmth is a good thing, but staying warm in style brings an extra something special to the table.
One of the best ways to keep showing off your well selected tie and perfectly spread shirt collar is the v-neck sweater, or, for those who are slightly more daring, the zipper-neck sweater. The zipper neck allows the freedom to pop the collar as pictured, or to tuck it under for a more subdued statement. Keep in mind that tucking the collar under the jacket could cause a bit of a lump or gap at the back of your jacket collar: if this is a problem, a v-neck may be a better option for you.
Choose a sweater that is thin and delicate, constructed of a fine fabric such as cashmere or merino wool, so that when worn under a sport coat or blazer one doesn't add to much unnecessary bulk to the torso. The idea is to stay warm, but not to look like a climb up Mount Everest is on the daily agenda.
Adding such a layer allows one the opportunity to be even more playful with colors. Note the example pictured, where the navy blue sweater is echoed by the navy blue in the pocket square, and the navy is also complimentary to the blue stripes in the shirt. Textures are somewhat repeated as well; both the sweater and the blazer are cashmere, so that even with bold patterns there is an anchor of consistency by way of fabric selection.
Get creative, have fun, but use the colder months as a chance to experiment with layering.
Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Required Listening: Xavier Rudd, "Messages"

2009-10-16T12:37:00.000-04:00

I first heard this song at the end of an episode of the hit Showtime series Weeds. I initially thought the song to be by Paul Simon: the resemblance between Australian singer/songwriter Xavier Rudd's and Paul Simon's voice is amazing, but after some tedious research (including lurking on Weeds discussion fora), I found the truth. The video shown here is from a live concert where Rudd performed the song for a small audience, sposored by an independent radio station at Northern Kentucky University. The song can be found on Rudd's album, "Food in the Belly". Enjoy.

The Eyes are the Window... Of Your Face

2009-10-14T13:05:00.001-04:00

The title borrows a line from Christopher Walken's "Googlie Eyes Gardener" sketch on SNL... you can find it on Hulu and you'll thank me after watching it.
That aside, today's post is about glasses, and if you're one of the fortunate folks out there with 20/20 vision, I am very happy for you. Contact lenses are a pain in the ass, laser surgery is expensive, and misplacing your glasses or having them fall behind a nightstand sucks.
However, the time for hiding your handicap if you do have less then stellar vision can be over for you, if you opt for a pair of killer frames (you still might drop them behind your nightstand, though).
My recommendation is something thick and noticable. Thin little titanium frames look like you're trying to wear something that people won't see, and this kind of kills the idea of glasses as an accessory all together. Yes! I said accessory! If you're reading this blog regularly, style is important to you, and if you have to have corrected vision, you might as well use your plight as an opportunity to make a statement!
I am absolutely in love with the Lemtosh frames by Moscot (pictured, available at http://www.moscot.com/). The Lemtosh frames have been worn by the likes of Buddy Holly and Truman Capote, and Johnny Depp is regularly seen sporting a pair (pictured). The groovy vintage feel of these frames imparts a sense of nostalgia, but their timeless looks make the Lemtoshes look great today as well. I was going to post a picture of these frames and leave it at that, but then I remembered that GQ Rules produced a video about wearing glasses, and featured none other than Moscot as a site for filming. The Lemtosh frames can be seen in this video on both Kenny Moscot and Adam Rapoport, the video host.
Embrace the idea of wearing frames. Most vision stores have staff who are very helpful at helping one find frames to fit a unique facial structure, so go and try a few on... even if you're just "window" (of the face) shopping.
Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Wear It On Your Chest

2009-10-08T18:56:00.000-04:00

Hello again! Today we return after many posts, to the topic of the pocket square. I've touched on pocket squares before, but have never covered the basics of proper square selection and decorum. The pocket square was for years a forgotten accessory, and I'd still consider it to be one of the most underrated. The breast pocket in a jacket was designed to display one, and having an added dash of color on your chest can do wonders for your overall appearance.

Now, with the advent of the Mad Men era, style is returning to the days of old, and many men are rediscovering the pocket square. Some choose to go for a crisply folded white square (Mad Men style), which always works well for providing contrast to an ensemble, allowing one's collar, cuffs, and square to break the visual monotony of the jacket. When straying from white, however, many men execute the wear of the square poorly. Mistakes are easily made, and I'm hoping that my two cents can help some folks avoid the pitfalls of square wear.

First of all, if you ever end up buying a pocket square and tie that come as a set, do not wear the two together. I would recommend refraining from buying these sets all-together, because in most circumstances, the ties are poorly made. A square/tie set always screams bargain basement to me, and those who know clothing and see you wearing an obvious set will think the same thing. Choose a square that is complimentary to your tie, but different (photo 1). In the pictured example, the colors are the same, but it is obvious that the tie and square are cut from different cloths.

Another method involves choosing a square to compliment a pattern in a suit (photo 2). In this example, the blue and gold pinstripe in the suit are echoed in the pocket square. The green base color of the pocket square is in the family of both the blue and the gold. The tie is complimentary here as well, with blue and orange accent colors.

Finally, the most daring approach involves pairing your pocket square with neither the tie or jacket, but with a color in the shirt (photo 3). In this case, one needs to look at the pocket square as a sort of second necktie, independent of the actual necktie. You follow? If you didn't have on the tie that you are wearing, would the colors of the pocket square serve in a necktie. In the pictured example, the actual tie compliments the cranberry colors in the jacket, and the pocket square compliments the undercheck of the shirt. Not everone will be comfortable with this type of pairing, but when you are able to put an outfit together in this manner it shows that you are looking at dressing as an artform, and not simply as a means of covering your rear end.

This post could go on and on; this is a simplified explanation of wearing the pocket square, but I am hoping that it's just enough to get you thinking and to jump-start the creativity of the man and his wardrobe. Try it out, take some risks, and be creative!

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Required Listening: Tom Waits, "Way Down in the Hole"

2009-10-05T19:53:00.000-04:00

Very interesting stylistic choices in this video, but more importantly, the song rocks. Chosen as the theme song for the cult hit show "The Wire" with Domenic West, this song kicks the proverbial ass. Watch. Listen. And by all means, enjoy.

Buy This: Esquire's Fall 2009 Black Book

2009-10-05T12:52:00.001-04:00

In 2006, Esquire magazine began releasing what they called their "Big Black Book: The Style Manual for Successful Men," an annual volume full of style tips, product recommendations, and all-around good advice on ettiquette, stain removal, ironing, button sewing, et cetera. The book came out in October, and after buying the first Black Book I was sold. I've bought every one they've published to date.

This year, Esquire changed their strategy and opted for semi-annual publication; one for Spring, and one for Fall. This made more sense, as trying to cram a year's worth of style and advice into one issue is nearly impossible. Spring's was splendid. Yesterday, I picked up the new Fall edition. Brimming with great new looks, as well as classic, the new Black Book features interviews with design heavyweights such as Paul Smith. It offers commentary on wines, cars, watches, coats, haircuts, dress shirts, cameras, grooming... just to name a few topics of interest.

It discusses how to break rules tastefully, how to stay warm in freezing weather, and how to better your posture.
For $9.95, you can't find a better go-to book. Pick one up at your local book store, or visit http://www.esquire.com/.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Required Listening: U2's "October" Album

2009-10-02T18:56:00.000-04:00

Hey everyone. Style aside, I wanted to share with you one of the albums that always comes out of the catalogue this time of year. Sometimes it's Fall, and sometimes it's Winter, but as it gets colder outside, U2's October always makes it into the rotation.

I've always been profoundly affected by Fall. Musically I'm at my most creative, and I feel the most centered and at peace. Maybe it's the music... but then again I can never get into this album in warm weather months like I do during this time of year.

The featured video is for the song Gloria, my favorite song from the 1981 release. It features the first guitar solo I ever learned how to play, and will always be very special to me. Enjoy the video.
Cheers.
-Paul

Fall Fabrics: The Big Cloth

2009-09-30T13:31:00.001-04:00

Alright! Autumn has arrived; the season fashionistas everywhere wait for all year... the most versatile season when equal comfort can be found in a T-shirt and shorts or a lightweight sweater under a blazer (see previous post). Layers can be shown off easily- the weather's right for it, unlike in the winter time when bundling up conceals your carefully selected ensemble.

Out of all the options that open up for dressing during this glorious season, there is one quintessential fabric for fall that we must touch on today; that fabric, my friends, is tweed. The color pallette of tweeds can echo the lovely changing leaves of autumn with rich rust and brown colors (photo 1) or can epitomize the briskness of the air with cool blues and grays (photo 2).

Tweeds are ideal for layering, available in many weights and thicknesses of fabric. They can keep you warm and wick away moisture, thanks to the amazing qualities of wool, which make up the fabric. Tweed, by definition, refers simply to a weave of wool, but today we will touch (ever so slightly) on the history and heritage that has kept tweed a stylistic staple for many, many years.

In Scottish Gaelic, the name for tweed was an clo mor, which means "The Big Cloth," referring to the layers of various texture and pattern that make up the wool's weave. Designed to be, effectively, one of the earliest forms of camouflage, landowners in Scotland commissioned tweed fabrics to outfit their gamekeepers (and themselves alike) during deerstalking and hunting. The patterns' colors were reflective of rock formations and foilage that decorated the surrounding landscape of landowners' respective estates. Landowners often had gamekeepers run up on the hillside with samples of proposed fabrics to see which one blended in better with nature's decor. This is how the multitude of variances of tweed patterns came about.

One variation of tweed that is quite popular this season, is the herringbone design. The simple twill (twill: a term for a woven pattern created by raising and lowering alternating warp threads in various combinations) of the herringbone design has been around for thousands of years, and looks very much like the skeleton of a fish (get it? Herring... Bone...). Different 2-color combinations can comprise a herringbone pattern, but usually a black or gray and a lighter color combine to create a rich, textured look when viewed up close (photos 3 and 4, below).
As I conclude our very brief history lesson, keep in mind that many popular tweed patterns exist, all with their own history, but focusing on the multitude would turn this post into far too detailed of an essay, which is not what we're trying to achieve here. What I want you to take away is the versatility of the fabric in composing your style. The availability of color and pattern can be the perfect pallette for pairing accessories with an outfit, be the accessory a necktie, a pocket square, a shirt, a zipper-neck sweater as a layering piece... the possibilites, given the variations of tweed prints, are virtually endless.
Take inspiration from the beauty of the season (and the majesty of The Big Cloth), and embrace the possiblities. Until next time,

Cheers!
-Paul

Calculated Miscalculations

2009-09-30T11:34:00.000-04:00

Hello again! Today we salute again those willing to take risks with their wardrobes by bowing to the principles of sprezzatura, the elegance of dishevellment, the intrigue of insouciance. Let's face it; the presence of a little nonchalance in one's outfit throws everything else into relief, offering the impression of a carefree attitude and unclouded demeanor.

One of my favorite methods I borrow from the Italians; the slightly wrong tie length (photo 1). I occasionally allow the back blade of the tie to fall a little bit longer than the front blade, and let the blades separate freely, giving my tie its own will. I like to do this with a spread-collar shirt and a slightly askew four-in-hand knot.

A Windsor knot, for example, can easily kill the look. The extended effort implied by the Windsor appears too fastidious and contrived. That's not to say that letting the back blade lie longer doesn't take a little work. It can be just as difficult to get the perfect "wrong" length from the tie, but it doesn't look that way. A Windsor, which uses a lot more of the tie in the knot, would require an extra long tie to allow the back blade to be longer than the front (requiring way too much thought and preparation), and the formality of the knot is very much the antithesis of nonchalant.

Another little maneuver that I regularly practice is leaving my cuff buttons undone (photo 2); I speak not necessarily of the buttons on my jacket cuffs, but on my shirt. Doing so allows for a more easy drape of the cuffs, and gives the material more freedom to peak out from the jacket cuff. The fuller look of the unbuttoned cuff is the casual equivalent of a French cuff and can be more flattering than material tightly banded around the wrist. This also allows one to have more of a selection of wristwatches to pair with the outfit, as the shirt cuff will not get hung up on a bulkier watch; a flub that can ruin the lines of an ensemble.

Experiment with sprezzatura and have fun with calculated miscalculations: wear bright red socks... let your pocket square scream from your breast pocket. Have fun. Just remember: the overall effect you want to present is that you gave little or no thought to these minute details; even if you tied and retied your tie for 20 minutes.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul
Please click images for enlarged view

Style Profile: An Interview with David Watkins of Astor & Black

2009-09-25T10:33:00.000-04:00

Hello again! For today's post, I was fortunate enough to have the chance to interview my friend David Watkins of Astor & Black Custom Clothiers. David has made a couple of suits and shirts for me and does beautiful work. For detailed info on Astor & Black, click here: http://paulwaltersonstyle.blogspot.com/search/label/Astor%20and%20Black, but to sum it up, Astor & Black provides exceptionally high-quality suits and shirts for prices you'd expect to pay for off-the-rack clothing. The attention to detail is quite remarkable and David's attention to what his clients want is second to none.

Aside from doing what he does very well, David has a tremendous sense of style and I am always impressed with his wardrobe choices. It is always the highlight of my day when I have the opportunity to talk shop with David over a glass of scotch (or three). I was thrilled that today he agreed to share some of his thoughts on style with us on this site. Just imagine the scotch.

Paul: Before we get into the style discussion, could you provide a little summary of your professional background?
DW: I was a marketing and advertising executive for 10 years; my last stint was as a partner at a local advertising agency. I decided to follow my passion into clothing... and well... here I am today, slinging fabric.

Paul: From advertising to making custom clothing... What made you want to get into the haberdashery business?
DW: My passion for clothes and the process that goes into making them. There is nothing like it. Also, with this job comes freedom. I can meet clients virtually anywhere in the world - that to me is exciting.

Paul: How would you describe your personal style?
DW: Classic, with a focus on quirky details. I love a good 3 piece suit, but... like today I am wearing a blazer with a tie and jeans. I would sum my style up as "mine".

Paul: Who influences you, stylistically speaking?
DW: WOW. Toughie. I get inspiration from just about every angle of my life... from the hip-hop and brit-rock I constantly listen to; from the magazines and blogs I read, to the people I have met along the way. My grandfather was the most stylish person I have ever known, so a lot of what I do is pay homage back to him. He was always dressed to the nines; always sharp, even up to his last days. Very impressive - I am not there yet.

Paul: What would you consider to be the key components of an outfit?
DW: FIT. FABRIC. FINISH. Take a $5 suit and get it tailored and instantly you are in the game. FABRIC. Make sure it is not polyester. FINISH. Focus on the finishing details, add them to your old suits if you need to. Hand-picked stitching, functioning button holes, et cetera. Also very key: the details! Make sure they are right; the length of your tie, having the right amount of cuff showing, your zipper zipped up and so on. Small things matter when it comes to dressing well.

Paul: And regarding accessories, what are your essentials?
DW: Are socks accessories? I must have a great pair of socks. Today they are bright red. I really do not have a rule when it comes to socks except the whole navy on black and vice versa.

Paul: If you could wear only one designer's clothing and nothing else, who would it be? ...Aside from your own, of course.
DW: Hell if we are dreaming I would probably take a stroll down Savile Row and get kitted out... hop a flight to Milan and do the same... I would probably seek out great tailors rather than great designers. That doesn't really answer your question now does it? OK... I think the Tom Ford Fall/Winter line is impressive so I will pick him... he is from the US. Go team!

Paul: How do you feel about what Thom Browne has contributed to menswear?
DW: Thom Browne has men really thinking about the cut of their suit and for that he should be set for life. I never thought it would take such drastic measures to make guys realize that baggy is not hip, but he did it! Thank you Mr. Browne for the reset.

Paul: Yves Saint Laurent said that fashion is fleeting, and style is eternal. How do you feel about this, and how do you stay stylish rather than fashionable?
DW: Stylish to me equals classic. Trends come and go, but style lasts forever. Take a great-fitting suit, add your small touches here and there and don't f#ck it up. There is a reason why we watch Mad Men and think "how cool are they?" They took the suit and didn't f#ck it up. Roger Sterling's lapels are a little on the slim side, the pants have little or no break, et cetera; overall they are classic and with that comes style. That's probably the reason you always see Tom Ford in the same or nearly the same outfit. He doesn't want to f#ck it up.

Paul: Are there any trends in menswear today that you absolutely love or hate?

DW: I never really hate anything too much... to each his own, ya know? Some things I adore, like the tie bar; it's great to see that making it's way into society again. Some things I am not keen on are blue suede shoes... oh, also triple pleated pants... I don't care how big you are: not a good look. I guess the biggest thing for me that I hate is when people take runway shows literally. They take the exact same outfit they witnessed on stage and copy it. Designer shows are typically over the top and meant to inspire. So when I see guys wearing this stuff... they look out of place like they are trying too hard. I hate that.

Paul: What is your favorite piece in your wardrobe?

DW: A Tiffany [& Company] tie bar handed down to me by my Dad. It has his initials on it. Also, my vests. I usually order one with every suit I buy... another weapon in the arsenal. You still do not see many guys wearing them, which is amazing to me! I just received a new double breasted vest... ready to break that out this fall for sure.

Paul: Okay, last question... we'll do it Barbara Walters style. Fill in the blank for me: "David Watkins is _______."

DW: David Watkins is THANKFUL.
This was fun... Thanks, Paul!

Paul: Thank you, David.

For information on Astor & Black clothing or to book an appointment,

contact David.

Email him at davidwatkins@astorandblack.com or call him.

(mobile)704-737-4274

(office)704-376-1102

Cheers.

-Paul

On the Street: Breaking Black

2009-09-22T12:45:00.000-04:00

I met a woman today who's style caught my eye. I was at my day job and she was a customer, so I abstained from a full-length shot... conflict of interests and what not. Before she left, however, I asked if she'd mind my photographing her watch/bracelet combo.

She was dressed nicely, with a form-fitting black knit shirt and some dark- wash skinny jeans. All in all, the outfit employed a very dark color scheme.
There was a little bit of ivory in her shoes, which, along with stripes of black, made up a very minimalist thong design. The big "black breaker" was in her watch, shown above (please click the image to see full size). She told me she had purchased both the watch and bracelet in New York City. I love the subway theme of the watch. In retrospect, I wish I had taken another picture to capture the band, which traced subway routes in bright colors against a shiny black plastic backdrop.

I was also impressed with her wearing of the watch with the chinese beaded bracelet. Cary Grant wore a thin gold chain bracelet with his watch, and I used to wear my bracelets on the same wrist as my watch as well... that is until I noticed the finish on a Rolex getting scratched and dull looking: not a viable tradeoff for fashion, in my opinion. A bracelet can be a very classy and tasteful accessory to a watch, and even if it seems a little bit more acceptable on a woman, the bold, chunky bracelet in the pictured example suggested a little bit of rebelious style.

A great point to take away from this post is the importance of breaking black. Through all of its darkness and neutrality, black clothing begs for one colorful accessory to scream out, "Here I am!" The key is not doing it ostentatiously. The subtle injection of color is a delicate art and can easily be overdone. I think the pictured example perfectly illustrates restraint and class.
This combo works. And it works well. I don't know that this delightfully colorful watch would work as well without the bracelet as its pairing. The colors in the watch, which our stylish lady must have worn with the intent of injecting some color into her ensemble, are kept at bay and restrained by more black, this time in the bracelet. Superbly done. Mrs. _______, I salute you.
Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Neglecteth Ye Not The Tie Bar

2009-09-18T15:33:00.000-04:00

Tacky? Outdated? Pish posh. I have heard select old and young sartorial figures use these words when describing one of my favorite accessories. I have heard praise over ingenious alternatives that remain unseen when used but boast tremendous function. I am talking about the tie bar, and for those who say they are dated (they originated circa the 1920's), you must have missed the huge resurgence that has been gaining intensity since even before Mad Men rocked AMC!

A tie bar (also tie slide, tie clip, or tie clasp) is a neckwear accessory that clips a tie to the fold of a shirt, preventing it from swinging and ensuring the tie hangs straight, resulting in a neat, uniform appearance. There you go. It has a function. The tie bar also, unlike nifty little doo-hickies that promise an invisible tie-anchoring method, has style. Loads of it.

Now I'm not saying that magazines such as Esquire or GQ should be held as law when it comes to the way one should dress, but they offer great guidelines, and the tie bar has been a prominent accessory in many men's publications for the past few years, pictured, but not necessarily shoved down the readers' throats. The nifty little device adds a small, tasteful flash of ornamentation to your chest, and throws a little bit of personalization into what can easily become uniform.

Tie bars are usually made of metal and often have minor decorative patterns. They are often engravable (although a monogramed tie bar may be a little over-the-top. Try an expletive to see who's looking!) and are usually seen in silver or gold. I prefer silver, as I sold my gold watch years ago and would refrain from blending silver and gold metals in the same ensemble.

There are important rules that must be heeded in order to do the tie bar justice. First, it should be simple- not a gaudy, bedazzled piece of jewelry for your tie. Wearing even a classic plain silver piece gathers enough attention. Trust me.
Second, tie bars are meant for slimmer ties and should always be shorter than the width of the tie. Even one that is the same width will look too big and needlessly break-up the natural line that the tie creates on the body. I do like to wear a tie bar with a standard width tie occasionally, but I cock the bar down at a bit of an angle to lend a bit of quirky attitude to the look (see the picture at top left. Tie bar by Dunhill).

Finally, keep the purpose in mind. Wear a tie bar not as an unnecessary accessory, but as a furnishing with a purpose: It should gently affix your tie to your shirt to prevent the tie from flapping around; useful as we approach the breezier fall season. What I'm getting at here is this: placement is key. A tie bar should not sit 2 inches from the top of your collar nor should it sit atop your navel. Think of the base of your sternum as the zero risk point. Gravitating too far away from this point in either direction approaches ridiculosity. Too high suggests pomposity. Too low, stupidity. Both detract from the function of the tie bar.

Way too high makes you look like a tool. If you are wearing some ridiculous 5-button suit that you stole from an NBA baller and want your tie bar to peak out from above your buttons, you will look like a moron just trying to flash some bling. A jacket with that many buttons will keep a tie from flapping about on its own.
Way too low, on the other hand, completely disregards function and provides the illusion that it's a miracle you were able to dress yourself in the first place if you get my drift. I like mine about an inch above the zero risk point. I'll show it to you, but I know how it works.

Remember this: men’s accessories with a vintage aesthetic never really lose their luster. Success with something like tie bar experimentation is just like any other part of getting dressed: it completely depends on how you wear it. An ill-fitting baggy suit and an overly substantial tie will not only make a tie bar appear exceptionally dated, but the contrast of sleek and shlubby will make the tie bar look entirely out of place. In the end, the right accessory is only as good as the person who wears it. Rock it well.
Cheers!
-Paul
( tie bar pictures: Left: Burberry, Right: Tiffany & Co., Top of page: Dunhill)

Required Listening: MUSE

2009-09-17T16:23:00.000-04:00

Muse |MTV Music

I don't know how many of you do this, but often when assembling an outfit or stepping into my closet for inspiration I play theme-music of some sort to help influence the pairings I may decide upon. Some days it may be the old-school classical "swing" of Bach, and some days it may be the fantastic raw gritty offerings of Tom Waits at his most experimental. I gave up on using Johnny Cash for dressing inspiration, because it almost always leads to an all black outfit (I know... hardy friggin' har). Music selection depends on what I'm dressing for, and it depends on my mood. I'll keep you updated periodically on music that is influential to me (whether or not you could give a rat's patoot). Today I offer a theme-music suggestion for you at home. You'll have to decide what kind of event this music will be best suited for, but keep an open mind. It may give your work-wear the necessary stylistic kick in the seat of the pants.

I have long been a fan of British neo-rock band MUSE, but with the praise their new album The Resistance is garnering, MUSE is bridging the gap from cult-following to household name. Everything they record is fantastic, and they always sound perfect live as well, thanks to programming all of their sounds and effects to perfection into the live performance version of ProTools so that the blistering guitar tone, pulsating bass, dream-like keyboards and slamming percussion you hear on their albums is unadulterated during live play. Their sound is stunning. If you saw their performance on MTV's Video Music Awards last week, you'll agree with me.

Throw MUSE on when you're going through the closet next time and see where the music takes you. Here is their latest for your viewing/listening pleasure, Uprising. The words to this one ring very true to me as well, but that's an entirely different topic, and an entirely different blog. No one wants to read about the threat of a socialistic government on a style blog, right? ...oops... I said it.

Until Next Time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Gay Talese: Save the Tailors

2009-09-12T16:02:00.001-04:00

Gay Talese, pioneer of journalism as we know it today, shares his affinity for tailored clothing. I have seen other bloggers post this video, but Gay's message here is very dear to me, as I do very much the same thing that he endorses in this video. I needed it on this site as well.

The emphasis in this video is not so much on bespoke clothing, but on stimulating the tailors' craft by using their wealth of skill and knowledge to personalize your existing wardrobe. The little details that Gay stresses in this video are what make tailors so important to the well-dressed man... especially to the man who wants his own personal style to shine through in his clothing.

In this video, Talese shares some of the personal touches he has had his tailors apply to his clothing, such as changing the color of the threads surrounding buttonholes on his jackets. I myself have had similar adjustments made to my own clothing prior to seeing this video, so I appreciate another man's love of the tailor's trade being made so mainstream.

It is true that tailors are a dying breed, which is saddening. "Alterationists" are a dime a dozen; the local dry cleaner can usually hem trousers or remove extra fabric from the seat of your pants. I prefer to have my work done by a tailor, one who could build me a custom suit or shirt if I asked him to. It is the tailor that transforms your garments not by hacking them up and sewing the seam, but by deconstructing the piece and lovingly recrafting it.

Save the tailors. Follow the Gay Talese "stimulus plan" to keep this wonderful species alive.

Until next time,
Cheers.
-Paul

Alan Flusser on Why Men Can't Dress

2009-09-12T13:45:00.001-04:00

Alan Flusser wrote the book on mens' clothing. Literally. His best-selling book, "Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion" belongs in every man's collection. His approach to menswear focuses on style rather than trend. Principles such as fit and proportion, color and complexion, and prudence of selection are combined to help men build a wardrobe that will last for decades, rather than becoming outdated seasonally (if you don't own the book, check Amazon.com. Buy it).
Alan Flusser is the man that dressed Michael Douglas's "Gordon Gekko" in Wall Street, created custom clothing for Al Pacino and Chris O'Donnell in Scent of a Woman, and has been a style advisor to other films as well. His Made-to-Measure company has been in business since 1979 and is still thriving today.
In the way that I identified with the previous video featuring Gay Talese, I see eye-to-eye with Alan Flusser's opinions on the mistakes men make when buying and wearing clothes.

We share a disapproval of what Thom Browne has done to menswear (I literally shutter at the thought) by bastardizing classic tradition rather than developing it (I refer to the suits that look like Big Bird molting rather than Brooks Brothers Black Fleece, of which Browne is creative director: you don't f*%# with Brooks Brothers), and I am in total agreement with Flusser that Hollywood's leading men are so often enslaved to who it is that dresses them. Alan Flusser is a huge proponent of developing personal style and teaching the fundamental keys to selecting the right clothes for one's wardrobe, no matter what fashion dictates is currently "in".

Enjoy this video. Alan Flusser says many of the things I want to say to men daily, and would, if I had his accumulation of years and years of credibility.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Astor and Black Charlotte Show Room Grand Opening

2009-09-11T14:08:00.000-04:00

My good friend David Watkins (pictured at Right) of Astor & Black Custom Clothiers is opening a show room inside Emerson Joseph men's grooming lounge, at their Uptown Charlotte location. The Address is 221 S. Tryon Street, and David is having a Grand Opening celebration this Wednesday evening, September 16. The event will run from 5:30 to 8:30 PM, and will allow you to see the quality of the product first hand and meet David, all while sampling fine libations from Jack Daniels Brands.

I have written a couple of posts concerning my experiences with David's work (one such suit I am pictured wearing at Left), but I'll recap for those of you who may have missed out.

Astor & Black provides custom made clothing tailored with the finest fabrics available at off the rack prices. Garments are completely hand tailored and all jackets are fully canvassed. Incredible attention is paid to every detail and finish. Clients choose from hundreds of suit fabrics from some of the finest mills in the world. All Astor & Black suits are tailored with standard features such as surgeon cuffs (functioning buttonholes), hand picked stitching and more. Every garment is tailored to your exact specifications and personal taste with unlimited styles and options.

All shirts are tailored with the finest cottons. Choose from hundreds of fabrics, thirty-one collar, fourteen cuff and eight pocket styles. Also, a choice of twenty-four monogram styles comes standard with every shirt order.

With Astor & Black, client convenience is of utmost importance--they can work out of your home, office or showroom. Your satisfaction is 100% guaranteed.

Package Pricing:

3 custom made super 120's cashmere/wool suits, 3 hand made custom shirts and 3 hand made silk ties - $2,200
3 custom made super 150's suits, 3 hand made custom shirts and 3 hand made silk ties - $3,300
3 custom made Scabal suits, 3 hand made custom shirts and 3 hand made silk ties - $4,400

Individual suits - $550 - $1350
Individual shirts - $95 - $110
Individual slacks - $150 - $450

Astor & Black also offers over-coats, cotton slacks, Mullholland Brothers leather and luggage, Babette Wasserman Cuff Links and Tie-Bars as well as Allen Edmond's and Loake Shoes.

If you have the opportunity, come to the grand opening and witness first hand how dropping off-the-rack dollars can land you in fully custom-made threads. I have been thoroughly pleased with my Astor & Black goods, and I know that you will too.
Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul
(pictured: l) Paul Walters; c) Dwayne Waite, www.dw4r.com; r) David Watkins)

Tom Waits: I've Been Changed

2009-09-09T17:35:00.000-04:00

This month's "Man of Style" plays an old Blind Willie Nelson song, "I've Been Changed". This is him with a guitar and a tambourine, as raw as it comes, and even in a worn polo shirt his style shines through. Notice again the emphasis on fit and proportion. You know what... forget it. Just enjoy the video.

Wants and Desires: The Car

2009-09-09T16:33:00.000-04:00

I must preface this post by saying that I do love my car. I drive a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer that has been optimized with RalliArt (Mitsubishi's performance division) parts and tuned by myself and folks who specialize in import performance. The car holds it's own with most commuters in its class. It is a sporty sedan (great for a father of two), gets great gas milage, and has lots of leg room (great for someone who's 6'2"). I feel that I have a car that allows me to cart kids around yet still holds a little bit of sporty allure.

The shape and design of the car that I drive looks decidedly European, but... it isn't. What I really want (and may have to wait until my kids are grown and out of the house just to afford automotive upkeep) is a vintage BMW 3.0 CS. Ohhhh, yes.
Produced between 1971 and 1975, the BMW 3.0 CS (referred to internally by BMW as the E9) featured a M30 inline 6 cylinder engine that cranked out 180 horsepower (stock... racing models produced up to 340) using twin Zenith carburetors. And damn, if the car just ain't as sporty as hell.

The car is a coupe, but is a four-seater, and the beautiful leather interior just looked so much more racey and hip in the 70's, peppered with lovely perforation and accented by chrome, this car is so my style. The one pictured above was parked next to my wife's old place of employment yesterday at a BP service station, and in the absence of my camera I snapped a quick cell-phone shot, which robs the car of a little of its glory.
One day, I'll be driving one. Remember readers: life is too short not to fill it with the things you like. Even if you have to wait for them.
Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Man of Style: Tom Waits

2009-09-02T14:12:00.000-04:00

Hello again.
Today's post pays tribute to my all-time favorite musician, Tom Waits. His eclectic musical offerings have spanned decades, but today I want to focus on his contributuion to style. Stylistically speaking, Tom Waits is the type of man we should all strive to be, not in the sense that we should emulate his look, but in the regard that Waits is a man who has developed his personal style, and maintains it with integrity.

From the seventies until now, Tom's style has evolved with him, but has never strayed far from where it began. Waits was, in his earlier days, regarded as some sort of neo-beatnik who lived just a notch above the streets and found solace in seedy, sleazy joints, honing his gravelly cigarette and bourbon drenched voice with perfection. Whether or not this opinion was factual or not doesn't matter; the man has always appeared comfortable in any setting, and in the clothing that he dons effortlessly.
The provided photos are taken from different eras and show a uniformity of style regardless of different types of dress. The consistency is what we're looking at here; the man knows what he likes and looks good sporting the threads.

I also like the timelessness of Tom's style. The outfits Tom wore in the photos from the seventies would look just as acceptable if worn today (when executed properly, which, of course, Tom does). The key to stylistic integrity is filling your wardrobe with the things you like, which when well chosen, will last you for years and remain stylish for just as long.
One thing that can be taken from the photos shown of Tom (courtesy of The Tom Waits Library) is his strict attention to fit. This is the one dead givaway that he is paying close attention to dressing well on purpose.

Whether in a suit or a denim jacket, the armholes are cropped and tapered, resting in the perfect spot on the shoulder. The bodies of his jackets fit close and snug, and the trouser legs sport a perfect taper. The importance of fit is evident from looking at Tom, and he uses fit and proportion to make his gangliness work for him, rather than trying to hide it.
Tom Waits represents an interesting sort of sprezzatura, remaining elegantly disheveled with the truest sense that he was never trying to look so damned cool... he just was, is, always will be.
Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul